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  1. Welcome to XL Adventure Motorcycle Community. Please feel free to browse around and get to know the others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask.

  2. Welcome to XL Adventure Motorcycle Community. Please feel free to browse around and get to know the others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask.

  3. Welcome to XL Adventure Motorcycle Community. Please feel free to browse around and get to know the others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask.

  4. Welcome to XL Adventure Motorcycle Community. Please feel free to browse around and get to know the others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask.

  5. Welcome to XL Adventure Motorcycle Community. Please feel free to browse around and get to know the others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask.

  6. Welcome to XL Adventure Motorcycle Community. Please feel free to browse around and get to know the others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask.

  7. Welcome to XL Adventure Motorcycle Community. Please feel free to browse around and get to know the others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask.

  8. Welcome to XL Adventure Motorcycle Community. Please feel free to browse around and get to know the others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask.

  9. Welcome to XL Adventure Motorcycle Community. Please feel free to browse around and get to know the others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask.

  10. By Paul Olesen, Industry Powertrain Engineer & Publisher of www.diymotofix.com How many of you become disheartened when spokes break, bend, or a rim becomes permanently damaged necessitating a rebuild of the wheel? I know a lot of people think rim building is a black art and are willing to shell out serious dough to avoid the job altogether. This week I want to debunk the black art of wheel building and provide you with an overview of the process, allowing you to take on your next wheel build yourself. Next week, I’ll cover the second half of the project by showing you how to true the wheel. As you can see I have a great example of a wheel assembly that is way past its prime. The spokes are bent, loose, and the nipples are mostly all stuck. On top of that, the rim is cracked in a couple spots necessitating further repairs. Before getting started disassembling the wheel, measure the distance from the rim to the ground. When the wheel is built the rim will need to be blocked up at approximately this height. Blocking the rim up will make the wheel much easier to assemble. The spokes will be offset from one another. Often times this offset necessitates the use of different length spokes. The spoke kit I received came with two different length spokes and there was no indication of which went where. If there are no instructions provided with your spoke kit and your wheel features spokes of different lengths you will need to determine the correct layout of the spokes. This can easily be done by removing two of the old spokes, measuring them, noting their lengths, and positions. Once you have determined the spoke length you can go to town cutting the rest of the spokes out of the rim using a cutting wheel or other suitable tool. Remove all the old spokes, then closely inspect the rim for damage. On my rim I had two nice size cracks I had to deal with. Once the rim has been replaced or repaired, preparations for lacing can begin. Since the wheel will be exposed to dirt, mud, water, and whatever else nature throws at it, I like to coat all my spokes with anti-seize before assembly. The anti-seize will provide a little extra protection against corrosion and help keep the spokes turning freely for a long time. Separate the spokes according to their lengths so that there is no confusion during assembly. Next, center the hub and block up the rim. Refer back to the measurement you took to establish the correct block height. As long as the rim is not offset to one side or the other it will not make a difference whether you start with the sprocket or brake side. The outside spokes will be laced first. If you try the inside route you will quickly find that maneuvering the outside spokes into position won’t be possible. Simply install a spoke into its corresponding hole in the hub then align the spoke with its corresponding hole in the rim. The rim may require some rotating to align the spoke with the correct hole in the rim, however it will be glaringly obvious where the spoke must go since the holes in the rim are all angled. As the spokes are installed, thread on nipples to retain the spokes. Only engage a few threads as you install the nipples. Keeping the rim loose will allow all the spokes to be installed easier as you go. Once all the outside spokes have been laced in one side, lace all the inside spokes on that side. Don’t be afraid to pull the rim a little bit from side to side to help generate enough clearance so that the end of the spoke can easily pass through the hole in the rim. The rim may also have to be moved up and down a little bit to help center the spoke. Next, flip the wheel over and begin lacing all the outside spokes on the remaining side. Pulling the rim from side to side and up and down will be necessary to get all the spokes aligned with their respective holes. By the time you are finished lacing you should have a nice fresh wheel assembly. A good way to check to make sure the spokes have been installed correctly is to compare the thread engagement on each spoke. With all the nipples tightened only a few turns the remaining threads showing on the spokes should be about the same. If the remaining thread length is vastly different between the inner and outer spokes there is a good chance the spokes have been installed incorrectly. If this is the case, the longer spokes will need to go where the shorter ones currently reside to even things out. If this isn’t done, there is a good chance some of the spokes will run out of threads when the spokes are tightened. After the wheel has been laced, the nipples on all the spokes will need to be tightened. Tightening of the nipples should be done evenly and gradually. An even pattern can be used to tighten the spokes so that the rim does not become offset radially in one direction. Most wheels either feature 32 or 36 spokes. Every 4th spoke can be tensioned to create an even 8 or 9 step tightening pattern. Once this pattern is completed, the next spoke in the sequence can be tightened and the whole process repeated until you have worked through all the spokes. In the picture below all the red arrowed spokes are tightened first, followed by the greens, then the yellows, and finally the blues. As the nipples are tightened, checking for evenness among the remaining threads is a nice way to gauge symmetry. You may find that there are small differences between the inner and outer spokes in relation to the remaining threads left on them. Instead of comparing the inner and outer spoke threads to one another, only compare similar length spokes as you work. The more care you take to ensure the spokes are tensioned evenly now, the less work it will be to true the rim later on. Check to make sure that the heads of the spokes fully seat in their holes in the hub. Some heads may get hung up and will require a tap with a punch and hammer to seat them. Relying on the nipple to pull the head into position doesn’t always work well. Another sign that the job has been done properly is that the spokes will not pass through the ends of the nipples. At this point you should have a rim that feels tight, is tensioned evenly, and is ready for truing. Check back next week for a write up on the truing process! If you found this post beneficial and enjoy tackling projects yourself, you may find my eBook, The Four Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbook a great read. The book is packed full of in-depth precision engine building knowledge, a detailed overview of performance part selection, and many photographic examples which outline what to look for in problematic parts during a build. The eBook comes in PDF format, is sent immediately to your email inbox, where you can read it or print it off and bring it into your workshop. Right now we have an awesome deal running where all website visitors get 20% off when they enter the discount code thumpertalk2015 before purchasing. To learn more about the book, check out the Table of Contents, and read some testimonials, click here. Do you have any helpful tips you want to add? Please leave a comment below and share your experiences! Paul Olesen
  11. 1. Personal items/vehicles only. No dealer ads at this time. 2. Please include either "For Sale", "Wanted" or "Trade" in your ad subject line. "FS", "WTB" or "T" are ok as well. 3. List only ADV bikes and related parts, accessories, gear & apparel. 4. When your item is sold, reply to your own ad (topic) with "Sold" as a courtesy. 5. Do not reply to someone's ad, simply to challenge their price. If really want to help them, a private message is more appropriate. 6. XLADV doesn't pre-screen sellers, so Caveat Emptor applies. If your "Spidey Senses" tell you something isn't right, feel free to report the ad to site moderators/admin. for a look-see.
  12. These 2" round XLADV.com stickers are printed on 3M reflective film and are of high quality. Each sticker is good for + 6hp and be cautioned, once on your bike, you will be asked for autographs wherever you go. $3.00 USD per sticker or two for $5.00. Paypal fudgypup at yahoo dot com with your complete mailing address and we'll get some in the mail ASAP!
    Hydration plays a big factor when participating in any form of physical activity and riding dirt bikes is no exception. I ride both a mountain bike and a dirt bike, and I am always in need of something to drink. Since cup holders aren’t standard on dirt bikes, I chose to try out a more practical wearable option from Leatt. Not only are they active in the off-road community and committed to rider safety, they don't contribute resources to anti-OHV groups like some of the big-name hydration companies out there. Product Overview The Leatt A2 Hydration System seems to be well made. The straps feel solid and have adjustable Velcro to fine tune the fitment. Reflective material has been stitched on to the straps for a little extra visibility. The design of the bladder (100oz/3l) fill is neat. It takes a few moments to figure out how it works, but work well it does. A center support section in the bladder keeps its profile thin and spreads out along your back. For the hands free kit, the installation instructions left a lot to be desired. It helped that I had seen how others have routed theirs, so I managed to figure it out easily enough. Performance Filling the Leatt A2 Hydration System, I threw in some ice cubes and water, sealed it up, and could not get it to leak. I squeezed it, hung it upside-down, and it stayed bone dry. The bladder fill opening is wide enough to put ice cubes or the mouth of a faucet into. The sliding lock feature has a solid feeling design and I couldn't ever imagine a situation where it could possibly come off under normal use. The cargo pocket was big enough to hold my phone, keys, and a small multi-tool, but not much else. I would have liked for a slightly bigger pack for things like an inner tube and tire spoons, but like most things, always a few compromises. Leatt makes a variety of hydration systems, including some with better storage capacity to suit your individual needs. I tested the Leatt A2Hydration System in a few different environments; mid-western woods mountain bike trails and the dunes of northern Michigan on a dirt bike. On the mountain bike, weight and bulkiness is always a concern. One thing that you will notice with this pack is just how much you don’t notice it. It has easy-to-use, well designed adjustment functions that allow it to really form to your body. It did not feel like I had 3 liters of water on my back (6.6lbs.), rather it just felt like it was like a small profile chest protector. I had full range of motion and it never impeded my movements a bit. I could hear a bit of sloshing, and while it attracted my attention from time-to-time, the back didn't move around, staying put nicely. On the dirt bike, performance was very similar to when I was pedaling, but an issue did pop up. Dirt bikes generate quite a bit more flying debris and dirt was attracted to the mouthpiece of the Leatt A2. Every ime I wanted to take a drink, I had to stop and clean it off. It is made of a sticky rubber material and was not easy to get completely clean. The mouth piece really does need a cap. I feel like the A2 pack would have been a zero-flaw product if not for this problem. The bladder compartment is lined with a thermal barrier and it did a good job of keeping my water cooler for longer and I did not feel the coolness of the liquid on my back. Other hydration packs that I've tried will slowly warm the liquid from your body heat. I don't think that the Leatt A2 eliminated this entirely, but I believe that it helps noticeably. The hands free kit did exactly what it was designed to do and interestingly enough, I didn't notice as much dirt on the mouthpiece as with the standing A2 configuration. It was easy to use and best of all, it allowed me to get a drink without having to stop. The quick coupler snaps on and off easily and has a locking feature that secures it well. Remembering to disconnect it before you remove your helmet does take a few tries though, but that's operator error only. Pros Comfortable. Lightweight. Stays in place. Hands free kit. Easy to fill and clean. Cons No cap on mouthpiece. Bottom-line After using various hydration packs over the years, I' know what makes a good pack and what makes a bad one. Leatt definitely spent some time on their A2 Hydration System and its overall construction and design reflects this. But, not having a cap on the mouthpiece is a design flaw that I cannot overlook. Personally, what would have been a 5-star product is now a 3-star because of it. The rest of the pack is great. I will continue to use it, as it is nicer than others that I've tried. Hopefully Leatt will come up with a quick solution to the dirty mouthpiece issue, having itself a rather fantastic product.
  13. 2 reviews

    Building on the legacy of the iconic H2 pack, the A2 takes over as the hydration king of 2 hour offroad races. The new 3.0L/100oz Hydrapak/USWE Shape-Shift Bladder keeps water from sloshing around while its super wide opening makes it easy to add ice and turn inside-out for cleaning. > 3.0L/100oz, Reusable Hydrapak Elite bladder > Perfect fit with or without a Leatt neck brace > Body harness for optimal body fit and sizing. > Hoses and mouth piece in high grade silicone. > Aluminum foil back cover keeps your liquid cooler
  14. By Eric Hall, Sr. Editor and Bryan Bosch, Publisher You’ve probably heard the saying, “Stock sucks!”. But, we’re not sure that’s always the case. Many of the factory components found on today’s bikes are rather good. However, when it comes to factory footpegs, more often than not, they can best be described as “adequate”. Most are simply too small, offer limited grip, and are not especially strong for off-road use. Footpegs simply aren't key points of evaluation for buyers, the manufacturers know this, so most don't seem to spin too many development cycles in this area. Consider this; your footpegs are a primary connection to your motorcycle, having an impact on your ability to position your body as well as accessing your foot controls. Adventure specific footpegs are typically larger because bigger (and heavier) bikes require more input, thus more time on the footpegs. For leisurely riding, “adequate” performing footpegs will surely do the job. But, if you’re pushing the performance envelope a bit or doing longer trips (especially off-road) on a 500+ lb. adventure motorcycle, we think that footpeg upgrades make a noticeable difference in terms of comfort and control. The most obvious common trait of aftermarket adventure bike footpegs is size; they are noticeably bigger, both in their width and depth. They also typically include a more open design to aid in the clean out of mud and snow as well as a variety of cleat materials, shapes, and lengths that offer better grip in slick conditions. Some aftermarket footpegs are lighter than stock (typically machined aluminum), but can be less crash-worthy than some stock steel units. Others made from cast stainless steel are stronger and even heavier, but none so much that you'd ever feel the difference. You'll likely pick up more weight from lunch. There are also ergonomic benefits for riders with legs and feet that have dimensions that fall outside the "normal" ranges. The purpose of this article is not to determine which is the best performing aftermarket footpeg for you, but to showcase some of the aftermarket offerings and to highlight their more standout design features. Be sure to refer to the product attribute matrix below for a quick comparison of the brands covered. In no particular order: KNIGHT DESIGN FOOTPEGS Trakker Tread Pattern Pictured Knight Design is a small, family owned manufacturer out of Corvallis Oregon. Their specialty is high quality lowered footpegs (drops of up to 1 ⅛”) that provide more rider comfort. Sure, you’ll lose some clearance (depending up footpeg selected and make/model), so factor this into how and where you’ll ride your bike. However, their drop values are in sync with the range of adjustability of the stock shift & brake levers, so control access and functionality is not compromised. Long legged adventurers will likely appreciate the less cramped sitting riding position more than any loss in footpeg clearance. KD footpegs feature a replaceable footbed that comes in two distinct patterns for off-road capable motorcycles. The Hunter footbed pattern uses boot friendly pyramid shaped teeth while the pin style teeth of the Trakker footpeg are taller to reach through dirt/mud for better grip. Both use an open design to shed mud, but somewhat more closed as compared to some in the segment. In speaking with KD, very soon they’ll be shipping their footpegs with replaceable footbeds made from stainless steel for increased durability. They also said that they are growing quickly and adding new models regularly. FASTWAY ADVENTURE FOOTPEGS Fastway is a brand owned by ProMoto Billet (PMB) who manufactures their products in Nampa Idaho. Their “Adventure” footpeg is claimed to be the strongest and most adjustable billet aluminum footpeg on the planet. Keep in mind that stock steel footpegs might actually be slightly stronger than even the best billet aluminum units. However, PMB still tests their Adventure footpegs (and competitive offerings) to failure using a hydraulic press, so they are confident that the product is far stronger than whatever force a rider can put on them and likely stand-up to most trail abuse. It took “several tons” of down force before their Adventure footpeg cried “uncle!”. In terms of adjustability; this is where the Fastway Adventure footpeg shines: Patented reversible collar system allows footpegs to be run in the standard or “low boy” positions. Choices in cleat styles (shapes), cleat lengths (10 & 12mm), and even how the cleats are oriented/installed on the footpegs three rows. These options allow the rider to dial in the level of traction, impact on soles, & foot freedom for how they ride and what feels right. Patented FKMS Kamber bolt allows the rider to set the amount of inward “tilt, either for increased rider comfort or to put you in a better for position for squeezing the bike when riding rougher terrain. Fastway Adventure Footpegs come in a variety of anodized colors (at an extra cost), but some options may take a bit longer to get depending upon popularity. We’ve tested these footpegs, so click HERE for a more in-depth review. SW-MOTECH FOOTPEGS SW-Motech is a German manufacturer who distributes its products in the US through Twisted Throttle. While not the most feature rich footpeg in the line-up, it’s value priced and represents a nice upgrade over most stock hardware. It retains its street cred by including removable rubber isolators with a textured top and a slider tip on the outside lower edge for riders that peg drag their ADV bike. Pop out the isolators and the footpeg is ready for the dirt. SW-Motech footpegs are made from high-grade, corrosion resistant stainless steel and its teeth are a boot friendly series flathead and x-shaped teeth. On some models, the footpeg bed is not fat, but convex in shape, allowing the rider more room for the bike’s foot controls and a more natural feel when getting over the front or rear of the bike. This footpeg is height adjustable, offering a stock and -15mm position. PIVOT PEGZ FOOTPEGS Pivot Pegz is a company out of Australia making footpegs since 2000. Their main point of differentiation is that they… guess what? They pivot! The benefit of pivoting is this increases comfort and aids in control. It also leads to less wear on the soles of one’s boots. There’s a spring that returns the footpeg to a level position as well as another spring that will return the peg if it were to fold up. Pivot Pegz have been run in Dakar twice, so they are tested and proven. This is the footpeg that I’ve had on my ‘11 GSA for four years now and their stainless steel polished surface looks nearly as good today as when I pulled them out of the box. Some say the pivot makes for an easier transition from seated to standing (maybe tired knees will appreciate) and that you always have contact with a full platform. However, it can also make gripping the bike with your knees difficult as well as pivot away towards the back when you're trying to weight that outside peg and expect it to stay put. Some riders will rig the peg so it only pivots forward. MOOSE RACING FOOTPEGS Hybrid Model Pictured Moose Racing is offering a couple of models of adventure touring/dual sport footpegs that are likely an upgrade over the typical stockers at a very budget friendly price. The Onyx and Onyx ½” offset come in at $89.95 and the slightly upgraded Hybrid model is just $10 more. Both models & variants of each are made from durable, cast 17-4 stainless steel, but the Hybrid model is given a solution based annealing treatment for more strength & longer wear. All models use the same 90mm X 57mm platform that is slightly convex (center teeth are a little taller) that give good grip, but allow for easier foot repositioning & controls access. Also, both models are offered in a ½” rearward offset to compensate for their increased depth, maintaining stockish distance to foot controls. However, they are not lowering footpegs. The Hybrid footpeg uses a more aggressive cleat that is shaped somewhat like a philips head screwdriver. These will offer better traction in muddy conditions, but with increased boot sole wear. If you don’t ride in these conditions, the less aggressive Onyx cleats will likely be the better choice. Lasty, both models are finished with black powder coating, but the outer edge of the Hybrid model is polished stainless, adding a little bling bling. TOURATECH FOOTPEGS What doesn’t Touratech make? Many big bike riders will probably buy this footpeg, having never escaped their labrynthian on-line catalog that they’re so well known for, but one could do much worse. This footpeg (Works model) has a very open design that probably has the best clean out properties available. Rather than being lowerable, the Works peg comes in a standard and lowered (20 mm) model. IMS RACING ADVENTURE II FOOTPEGS IMS is one of those long standing dirt racing companies founded back in the 70’s in Southern California. They make a variety of off-road bits, mostly larger fuel tanks, reinforced shift levers and yes, footpegs. Their Adventure II footpeg (one of five models available) is probably their most distinctive, as it has kind of an extra "lobe" that comes off the back end of the footpeg. IMS is a big believer in using high quality 17-4 stainless steel and claims an aluminum footpeg will break too easily as well as teeth wearing too quickly. Some model fitments are lowered more than others. They’re made in the USA and come with a lifetime warranty. A couple of drawbacks may be that some riders have reported difficulty being able to get their weight to the back of the bike with so much platform on the back of the footpeg, as well as possibly getting in the way of putting a foot down in a hurry. That said, these footpegs have been used by some very impressive names in off road racing. BLACK DOG CYCLE WORKS FOOTPEGS Black Dog Cycle Works (BDCW) is a company out of Sandpoint, ID headed by Kurt and Martha Forget. BDCW is probably best known for their skid plates. This footpeg is one of the larger ones out there and may hit the sweet spot for size as even just an inch of your boot hanging over your footpeg can noticeably reduce your comfort and ability to control your adventure bike. BDCW was the first manufacturer to come out with an ADV footpeg that has an integrated bottle opener; a key selling point for those who like a frosty one at the end of the trail. BDCW interestingly reports they sell more of the lowered model footpeg than standard height, which tells you that it’s probably not a bad feature to consider for your next footpeg. BDCW’s footpegs are also Dakar tested by Kevin Muggleton as well as in the Mexican 1000 by Chris Vestal. WARP 9 ADVENTURE FOOTPEGS Probably most well known for their off-road wheel sets, Warp 9 now offers an interesting design for Kawi & Suzuki dual sports and KTM ADV machines. Warp 9 uses a two piece design that uses a Ceracote coated Chromoly steel pivot for what they refer to as the “ultimate in strength”. The pivot is then bolted to the replaceable 7075T6 Aluminum platform that is a very wide 5” X 2.5” deep. The cleats are not individually replaceable, but they are made from stainless steel for long-lasting performance. The platform is a little on the closed side, so if you ride a lot of mud, they might pack a bit more than some. Stock height is maintained and hey, who doesn’t like the bottle opener in the bottom of the platform as well as the choice of 4 anodized platform colors? Nice touches. In talking with Kevin Tanis @ Warp, soon they'll be releasing footpegs for the Yamaha Tenere and Triumph Tiger models. Good to know. BOTTOM-LINE We think that footpegs ARE a critical part of your bike's controls and because of this, it's worth the time and effort to investigate the different options out there, finding a pair that suits your particular needs. Increased rider comfort, more positive braking & shifting, and more bike control, all from from a relatively affordable, bolt-on product. It's one of those items that you can live without, but once you've ridden on any one of these footpegs, you'll likely never go back to most stock units. If you do have any experience with these products, if you would, please give them your rating in our Review System. We'd love to have your thoughts and thank you in advance!
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