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2013-Current R1200GS/A LC Clutch replacement Guide

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2013-Current R1200GS/A LC Clutch replacement Guide.

If you're experiencing slippage when accelerating you probably have a failing clutch. A good example of the clutch failing is when accelerating you visually see the RPMs rise and the speedometer drop, the clutch no longer provides a solid contract between the transmission and the motor. The following is a basic clutch replacement guide. Set aside two hours to complete this job from start to finish.

Parts List:

  • Clutch Package P/N: 21218529450. Price $1,068.60   (Note: Only needed if entire clutch is damaged)
  • Pressure Plate P/N: 21218529449. Price $128.72   (Note: Replaced if damaged)
  • Lamellar Package P/N: 21218529448Price $370.41 (These are the clutch plates)
  • Gray RTV Silicone gasket
  • Oil Filter P/N: 11427721779 $19.58
  • Motor Oil 4qts 5w-40

4A53C025-E113-49FE-AF16-88F303469CFA.jpg

 

 

1. Start by using a ratchet strap to compress the front suspension. You'll notice that the engine's front cover is partially blocked by the lower control arm of the lever suspension.

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2. Drain motor oil and remove oil filter.

 

3. Remove all bolts holding the front cover to the engine.

4B6AA701-2977-4CFA-81F9-EB9F02CD4CC1.jpg

 

4. Use a dead blow hammer and tap the cover a couple times and crack the silicone loose. Shouldn't take a lot of effort once you tap it. Pull cover off.

2199CC13-D7D5-4F7C-9E9C-81542A50378D.jpg

 

5. Using the Clutch lever, visually watch the clutch pack. Take a mental note on how it should look when its put back together. When you pull the lever it'll push the clutch pack out and disengage the power.

 

6. Remove the three bolts holding the Spring Pack

B4C8379C-23F6-4D53-BA16-6D0971E9766A.jpg

 

7. Remove the Pressure Plate

 

8. Slowly remove the clutch plates including the two large rings at the end. A small needle nose set and a magnet help during this process (Very Important! Keep the plates in the correct order as you remove them)

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9. Inspect all components and determine what is required. (If the Clutch Basket is damaged you'll need to remove the nut holding it together, the engine will need to be locked.)

9E08CC1E-DBEA-4D3C-8C82-AE96661930DC.jpg

 

10. Place all Clutch Plates in a bath of new motor oil. (Use a small clean container)

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11. Re-install the large rings and the clutch plates in the correct order as you removed the older worn plates.

 

12. Re-install the Spring Pack and the three bolts holding everything together.

 

13. Test clutch lever and visually watch the clutch pack. Watch for proper engagement and disengagement of the clutch.

 

14. Clean front cover mating surface and engine block surface. Use a razor blade to remove the silicone.

F7562933-3921-4385-AD95-8F28E6DB1869.jpg

 

15. Apply a small line of gray silicone gasket along the mating surface of the cover.

 

16. Re-install cover and tighten bolts

 

17. Remove tension on the front suspension

 

18. Add fresh clean motor oil and install new oil filter.

 

19. Start engine and let the motorcycle rise to operating temperature. Once the bike is warmed up test clutch by going on a gentle ride around your neighborhood. 

   

 

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Edited by Rogers
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Hi Rogers,

Thanks for the detailed write up.  I found this thread because my 2014 GS clutch just started slipping.  Which parts did you need?  I have 80,000 miles on my GS and I'm not sure if all I need is the plates or if I need more.  I'd like to avoid spending $1000 on the clutch package if I can avoid it.

At the moment, I only notice the slipping under hard acceleration so I suspect that it's only the plates that are worn.

I'm trying to avoid pulling the bike apart before ordering parts if possible as well.  Any suggestions or recommendations?

Thanks for your help!

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1 hour ago, Christopher Beneke said:

Hi Rogers,

Thanks for the detailed write up.  I found this thread because my 2014 GS clutch just started slipping.  Which parts did you need?  I have 80,000 miles on my GS and I'm not sure if all I need is the plates or if I need more.  I'd like to avoid spending $1000 on the clutch package if I can avoid it.

At the moment, I only notice the slipping under hard acceleration so I suspect that it's only the plates that are worn.

I'm trying to avoid pulling the bike apart before ordering parts if possible as well.  Any suggestions or recommendations?

Thanks for your help!

Unfortunately you'll need to pull the front cover off and dissemble the clutch plates to fully understand what's needed. You can't guess with this, they're either all worn out or not. With that amount of mileage I suspect you'll just need the plates alone and be able to reuse the basket and pressure plate. Honestly the only way to tell is to disassemble. It's really easy to do.

Edited by Rogers
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Thanks for the quick response!  I'm hoping that the hub and basket don't need replacing as well because they're crazy expensive.  The only reason I suspect they might need changing is because I am having a hard time shifting the bike and neutral is almost impossible to find.  I read that these could be symptoms of a worn hub and basket.

Either way, your writeup has been super helpful!

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So easy....I've done a few clutches on the oil-cooled and it take a slight bit longer!

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On 7/5/2017 at 7:38 PM, Rogers said:

.

Hi, I'm having hard times with my GS :( Could you please tell me how you fixed the engine to tight the clutch? Is there any specific tool for holding?

 

 

Thank you in advance

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Check out my post on advrider.  Post #9 shows the BMW specific tools you need to prevent the engine from spinning.  https://advrider.com/f/threads/so-i-think-i-figured-out-why-my-gs-lc-clutch-is-slipping.1238120/

I didn't need the tool in order to replace my clutch, but it would probably have been handy.

Edited by Christopher Beneke

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The problem I have is ticking. The engine is running and I press the clutch - it disapears, then clutch is released - ticking comes back on idling. Gears are shifting good. So I thought it's a clutch and bought a new one. I can see signs of wear on old one, but will the replacing help me not sure. Any ideas?

 

Rob 

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The ticking is baffling. When I have mine in neutral the clutch area is louder than when i pull the clutch lever in. Of course my skid plate mangifies all engine noise drastically it was almost inaudible when the aftermarket skid plate was off. I replaced the pressure plate too. That came with the bearing.

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