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Central and South American Adventure


Eric Hall

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Headed south to Creel today. Got to the first peaje (toll booth) and no wallet!!! Rode 38 miles back to Chihuahua and it was at the restaurant I ate at last night

But in my haste to look in my bag at the peaje I didnt secure my stuff well enough and lost like ten pairs of shoes meant for the kids at a school in Batopilas. Well, some kids will get them, just not the ones we thought.

In Creel now stuffing my face because I skipped breakfast and lunch.

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So Creel was one short day. I’d been there before. Had a nice bfast and was going to check out a hot spring close by (Recowata) but I met two adv riders at the atm (everyone was waiting to use it because it ran out of cash the day before) and they said they heard the road was really rough. That didn’t scare me but they said even trucks were having an issue and so I figured I’d pass.



Moved onto Batopilas via “pavement” and stayed at Juanita’s. I ate lunch at Carolina’s and waited for Martin, the owner. He was on his way back from Chihuahua as his mother passed away. I told him about the water filter project and he pulls out a bucket with the same water filter and tells me the government already handed them out to all the residents there! Well, I guess my work is done here then! Lol.



Set out for Urique the next morning early. Road was pretty tricky! But got to Urique at 10:45 so I just kept going. Super hot long day. 150 miles of dirt in 9 hours without stopping! Got a hotel in Choix. Los Mochis tomorrow!

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Met a guy from Instagram named Carlos Moreno. He was busy at work but introduced me to another guy, Ariel Gamez, and we met for lunch in Los Mochis. Super nice guy.

Ariel said his moto friend Teo has a place in Mazatlan i can stay for free! So I’m there now.

Long and hot day getting here. Rolled in about 8 pm. I need to stay another day though because I still feel tired from all the riding.

May go to Durango next as it’s cooler and has a famous twisty road called Spinosa del Diablo.

I will ride the Malecón here in Mazatlan and hopefully get some good pics.

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Made it to Durango today on the most amazing road called Espinazo del Diablo!


Durango is super chill too. Got some great drone shots you’ll see later.

May stay another day before moving onto Zacatecas. I hear good things about the enchiladas there.

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Durango was really great but had to go today onto Zacatecas. The hostel manager was annoying me and the wifi didn’t work.

But I had an amazing stay vía Couchsurfing with someone who works for the city tourism office. Best tour guide in town.

Zacatecas now! Last pic for you, Arwi

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Durango was really great but had to go today onto Zacatecas. The hostel manager was annoying me and the wifi didn’t work.

But I had an amazing stay vía Couchsurfing with someone who works for the city tourism office. Best tour guide in town.

Zacatecas now! Last pic for you, Arwi
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The pics look amazing!!! Couch surfing ahhh! I miss that lol! Look at that dish! Looks amazing.
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Cartel Stories

While I was staying in Zacatecas City (the State's capital), there was a shootout about 25 miles to the northwest, the direction I'd entered the city the day before.  Three police were fired on and they responded, killing 14 "civilians" with Barrett rifles, grenade launchers, drugs, etc...  

Sounds like some cartel didn't like the po-po in their area and took some shots at the police and didn't expect the fire to be returned.

Mexico is a real mess with this cartel situation.  Colombia fought that battle in the 80's and won (even though they still deal with cartels and FARC) but it's not clear if or when the Mexicans ever will.  It's likely to get much worse before it gets better.  All fed by demand for drugs here in the US, btw.

But it's important as a traveler to keep this in mind.  The cartel is never after tourists and have done their best to even protect tourists and "take care" of those who've abused tourists.  They say new recruits are trained that if they kill a tourist "they'll be dead before the end of the same day."  My route was communicated to the local cartel as it was the last two times I was in the area via a contact I have there.

I was with a group 2 years ago when my bike crapped out (again) in Alamos.  The group continued and had a lot of drama with an injured rider evac'd on a helicopter and then a rider going over the side of a bridge into the water.  He was fine but they spent time getting the water out of the bike to restart it.  So they were delayed by quite a bit at that point and while it started to get dark they came up on a group of armed people blocking the road.  The lead rider panicked and just accelerated and the armed men had to jump to the side.  Turns out they were a regular cartel check point and were just checking up on whether the group was okay or not since they were so delayed.  Funny in retrospect but it's important to respect whatever authority you come across and realize that you do still have a special status as a tourist.  As crazy as it seems, people still act rationally within a certain framework.  Charly Sinewan told some funny stories too about some certain people asking him about his stay here and there.  He was shocked that they even knew!  There's eyes everywhere lol.  They know it's bad for the local economy and don't want heat from the federales or the US.

Another cartel story from that trip 2 years ago is I got a ride back to the border from this guy and his friend.  I paid him $600 which sounded like a lot until I heard another friend in Batopilas had charged another guy $1,000.  Anyways, the friend used to be a policeman until he was shot point blank in the chest by a cartel sicario (hitman).  Luckily the bullet went straight through and he recovered.  But the guy was just being a drunk a-hole and that's just not something they're "supposed to do" so a cartel guy once sat next to this guy on a local street and said "hey, we're very sorry about what happened to you.  It should have never happened.  We don't do that.  That guy is no longer a problem because he made a hit recently and got his face on a security camera.  If there's anything we can do for you, please let us know."  Crazy huh?

There were 30 murders in Chicago last weekend but people don't seem to be that bothered by a weekend trip there.

Still, I'm traveling only in the daytime and staying on major roads (in this part of Mexico).  I don't go out to bars at night either.  It's also not a bad idea to either have a burner phone or use an app like Hush, Burner, CoverMe or TextMe Up.  You use WhatsApp internationally a lot but that number is typically your real number and connected to your Facebook and other apps.

I had a situation last October in Ensenada where I'd cancelled a hotel reservation (more than 24 hours in advance) and a week later I get a text from some CJNG goon saying I owe them $100 for the cancellation.  They'd also already tried hacking my FB account.  I immediately blocked the number but it scared the crap out of me for a few weeks lol.

I have not actually seen any cartel checkpoints this time but when stopped I stop my bike, open my visor, take off my sunglasses and say: I'm a tourist.  I do clean water projects for people who don't have safe drinking water and that my friend knows their boss and has called ahead on my behalf.

Another good friend was in Mexico City and three of them had their new BMW GS's stolen from them at gunpoint. The robber took all three of their cellphones and lined them up and shot a hole through them as a warning.  Because these riders happen to have connections, calls were made ("these are good guys doing charity work," etc...)  That night a flat bed tow truck showed up with all three bikes.

So threats can be real but they're usually overblown.  You're safer than you think but it's still smart to be prepared and not put yourself in various situations.

I'm a motorcyclist and choose to live my life and mitigate risk.  Adventure is risky but routine is fatal.  Life is fatal!  I train to be a better rider.  I wear all the gear, all the time.  I don't ride in certain situations and still ride conservatively in others.  I've been pretty good at not doing stupid things.  I felt High Sierra was a safe risk given the threat of covid (all outdoors) and we proved that to be safe (Giant Loop's rally recently too).  I'm not going to hide in my safety bubble and sell my bike because they're dangerous or hide in my house because of covid or stay within my own borders because I fear cartels.  Ride your own ride.

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Yesterday I went down to Morelia and rode with Beto Reyes, a GS Trophy finalist, Motorrad Ángels volunteer and all around good guy. He hosted me with such hospitality as you rarely see.

A highlight was riding the Mil Cumbres road which is party of the famous Carrera Panamericana race being held this Monday!

Back to Guanajuato now which will be hard to leave. Maybe hit the mummy museum tomorrow.

And a pic of a sweet hand made croc wallet I bought by Juan Pablo of Chihuahua (SGS Marroquinería Fina)

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Spent four nights in Guanajuato and I’d still like to go back.

 

Although I did do a filter installation for the hostel, here in Mexico the water is actually okay in most larger towns. You have to get to the rural areas for the ones who need clean water the most but right now that’s a bit dangerous here. But I did meet a guy who’s with the water department for the state of Guanajuato and he’s very interested in the work of Motorrad Angels. I am having one of the volunteers here in Mexico follow up with him. He says they have a huge need for that.

 

Moved onto Queretaro and stayed last night with a Baja and Sonora Rally friend, Stefan Rosner, and his lovely family. He does the Bosnia Rally and runs about 25 tours/year in Europe. He’s putting together a fun 10 day big bike tour of Baja and the mainland called Baja Nora for next October. It will be big bike friendly tracks with gps for the road sections and waypoints for the dirt. It goes south from Mexicali to La Paz then crossed via the ferry to the mainland and then back up through Sonora.

 

In a hostel tonight and tomorrow will go to San Miguel de Allende.

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