Jump to content

Central and South American Adventure


Eric Hall

Recommended Posts

  • Administrators

César showed me a great place to mount and balance my tires yesterday. They gave me a deal of $15 but it’s normally just $40!

Motoz were great and had a bit more left even at 6k miles but not sure where I can get tires next so I went with these since Motoz are sold out here.

I may move on south next week or May fly to Peru to help Tom Palmer get two bikes back to Medellin. I will store the bike here and come back later.

IMG_9615.jpgAdjustments.jpgAdjustments.jpgIMG_9617.jpg
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 minutes ago, Eric Hall said:

César showed me a great place to mount and balance my tires yesterday. They gave me a deal of $15 but it’s normally just $40!

Motoz were great and had a bit more left even at 6k miles but not sure where I can get tires next so I went with these since Motoz are sold out here.

I may move on south next week or May fly to Peru to help Tom Palmer get two bikes back to Medellin. I will store the bike here and come back later.

IMG_9615.jpgAdjustments.jpgAdjustments.jpgIMG_9617.jpg

I vote to fly to Peru, especially if its funded by someone else!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators

I'm funding my own trip but you're right, Tom is going to pay for my flight.  But it's only $188 lol.

I'll be here a few more days.  Met a friend of [mention=3957]Justin Mackie[/mention], Dubanok, here in CDMX who runs a moto shop for a Chinese brand called Zontes.

 

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CG3RcPepf4P/?igshid=6ekaerjq447o

 

Great drone shots too

https://www.facebook.com/eric.hall2/videos/10164472600205215

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators

Ride with a club from CDMX called Comunidad Discovery that Dubanok introduced me too. Day ride to Puebla and I ended up staying here.

Saw Popocatépetl for the first time. It was smoking a bit too.

Will head back to CDMX today to pick up a few things then return to Queretaro. Kind of in a holding pattern until I head down to Peru to help Tom retrieve a bike. Will
ride it back to Medellin and stay there a while then fly back here and resume the trip.

F45F8294-7425-4DD4-A6D3-F5A0491640A6.jpg7b857062-fca9-4c7a-b42e-e31934313e65.jpgIMG_9776.jpgIMG_9762.jpg05b44bca-cf62-4b92-8166-b747f23ed6b7.jpg1f1050e9-605d-4895-b381-04fa7aa89740.jpg
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators

Spent two days in Puebla doing mostly nothing then rode back to Mexico City in the morning to pick up some laundry.  Turns out even though they had it for 5 days they said it wouldn't be read until 6pm!  So I waited around until then and visited the local Triumph dealer and said hi.

AA65EA38-8426-448A-B22A-76C35A4EF15C.JPG

I rolled out of Mexico City to go back to Queretaro (quieter, less expensive, less gritty) and traffic was a total nightmare!  Took me 90 min to go 20 miles.  I could split maybe 20% of the cars but the trucks were just too wide.  Then once I got out of the city it got really cold, down to 41 degrees.  My heated grips and seat worked well.  The seat at one point was too hot so I turned it to low but then later got so cold I turned it back to high and that really helped.  Got to Queretaro in about 3.5 hours for what is normally a bit over two.

Saw a nice winery the next day with a riding buddy.  Great food and wine!

IMG_8502.JPG

So I finally got a ticket to fly to Miami on Tue then Medellin Wednesday to join Tom Palmer (Motorrad Angels) in his quest to get some bikes back from Peru.  I may be in Medellin for about 5 days then a short trip to Bogota then we'll go to Lima to do some paperwork stuff for Dennis's bike and be there for a few days.  Cusco we'll fly to and get the two bikes there set up with new tires, oil, battery, etc... then start riding them back.  Tom says he wants to go through Bolivia to see the Uyuuni salt flats which would be cool.  I was there in 2014 but we skipped Uyuuni because it was the wet season.  Tom wants to be able to camp but it's a lot of room in my carry on to bring my tent, bag and pad so I'm going to push back on that one.

It may take us 2-3 weeks to get back to Medellin and I'm sure we'll do some water projects along the way.  I will most likely stay in Medellin until after Christmas and then fly back to Mexico City in January to resume my trip.  Tom wants to ride to Ushuaia at some point but not sure if I'll join him.  He was also mentioning Asia which would be amazing.  We'll see!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators

Made it to Medellin and have done a bit of riding here on a ‘13 GSA just like my old one. Went to see some waterfalls.

Encountered a single mom (Venezuelan) on the street selling candy and we talked to her a bit then gave her 100,000 pesos which is about $30. She cried.

Have my own riding partner here too

Leaving for Peru tomorrow to get two bikes back and do more water projects.

IMG_0096.jpgIMG_0075.jpgAdjustments.jpg
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators

Tom and I made it to Lima and spent a few days getting Dennis’s bike sorted and today we flew to Cusco to finally start some riding. Hope we can get the bikes sorted tomorrow and go but worried about the batteries.

Did an interview with Eduardo in Honduras yesterday about the two hurricanes they got slammed by. Huge need there now so we got a fundraiser going on FB.

IMG_0278.jpgAdjustments.jpgIMG_0352.jpg
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators

Wow! We did quite a few miles of amazing tracks both dirt and pavement.

 

Started out in Cusco and didn’t know if the bikes would start after 9 months but they did! (Thanks Yuasa).

 

I rode a 2013 GSA just like my old one and loved it for the most part. Suspension sucks and the tank bag was too big but I made it work.

 

Got new tires in Cusco (Mitas e07 front, Motoz Desert HT rear) and hit the trail and met up with two other riders in Pisac, Michael Jones and Julia Goloskokova.

 

Super high passes and set a new record of 15,837’. Saw some cliff hanging hotel rooms too!

Adjustments.thumb.jpg.af3537a167d10b61b9b73140d74203bd.jpgIMG_0410.thumb.jpg.558970f8787ae23473f6bd62ca1bf5e9.jpgIMG_0417.thumb.jpg.f405437d4d85b88d88024046e4a070d6.jpgIMG_0432.thumb.png.b08e8c793a8c8e20b49efe924c148356.png39F17EE0-A757-4EEF-96E7-3332DF415559.thumb.jpg.9b512d357b085bd66bdc22c4338e9761.jpgIMG_0420.thumb.jpg.59bb2c73eb136c53a2a0152a1c9beb69.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators

My friend Michael Jones does a better job than I at telling what it’s like riding in Peru. We rode with him for a few days then they had to go back...

“I have in the last two weeks had basically two trips…One from Pisac to Macha Picchu returning to Pisac on 21 and then a trip all around and back to Macha Picchu region and beyond with Tom Palmer and Eric Hall which just showed up from Colombia to retrieve their bikes trapped in Cusco back to Lima…
.I should have looked at the map
1700 miles of beautiful , awe inspiring roads into the high Andes and Lower river valleys that were hot (extremely) 111 degrees one day…600 KM of very rough dirt roads…Dusty and hot….I did not realize until the 2 day these two were on a impossible mission to get back to Lima to catch a plane back to Bogota and the realization they had no time to stop, but blast right through to their destination….Two and half day with them and I was shot….no more energy….We departed each other they went north and that is when I realized their was no easy way back except backtrack or go another route the only other one available….Instead of two days 3 ½ days with a final 12 hour marathon day to get back to Pisac…..Most of the back areas have limited or no cell service….Two nights in dumps and two night in ok hotels…You pull in and you have one priority….Get in and shower and go get some food and to bed…Lost sleep two nights, because of heat of the room with no air , fan, etc…
The other issue I fought the entire two weeks….BUG Bites….My ankles were hit to the point of both legs swelling up and numerous bite sites….all of this with bug repellant applied and still these bugs bite…fleas, flys, mosquitoes…
All a part of adventure riding…
If you could have all been alone with me outside of the sheer physical output you would have traveled in some of the most remote places in the Peruvian Andes…The people go from the Remote high altitude Indian tribes that live above 12000 ft, most without electricity, in literally dirt houses, dirt floors, walls and thacked roof to the lucky ones with a tin roof….These people have virtually no money, live off of a complete agricultural base and live the life most have had for 100’sd of years…These people for the most part want to be left alone in their lives….They are not very friendly and are scared of you for the most part. At about 11 to 10000 ft you will you will have the converted intermixed people that still live in the dirt houses, but these have some electricity, maybe a small three wheel hack, or small motorcycle for family transportation…They might have schools in some of their towns, but none of them are open because of the covid…These people have a little money from their crafts, farming activities, but are also extremely poor…they are more friendly….This is also the country of the cocoa leaves farming…Since it is extremely high and dry it must be a perfect environment to grown and You could pick up huge bags of the stuff right on the road….I make cocoa tea and it does help with the high altitude….fresh milk and cheese can be found….Alpaca meat, lamb and pork are the meat of choice alone with fresh fish from the highland lakes…I am extremely lucky to be there in an extreme drought..Last year was the opposite and rained and flooded apparently…I am in their rainy season, but only caught by a few rain showers….The temperature goes from a high of 111 f to 49 degrees f during the day…At night over 10,000 ft it can go to freezing……
Riding these back roads is really the experience of any adventure riders lifetime…In the USA in Europe yes you can get into the mountains and go around them and sometimes over their lowest passes…In Peru there are high flat glacier planes for 25 miles high planes at above 12000 ft because it is the only possible level areas..These are where heavy glacier graded the areas…then you go down to about 9000 feet and back up again….unending sweeper curves, double switchbacks, many places no guard rails where you would never survive the fall. There are constant grim reminders of the 1000 that have gone off into another world…They build little shrines, some with pictures in them of their loved ones….In Peru there is no traffic control…You can ride as fast as you like , you can pass on any blind curve and I have seen police drive even worst than most of their crazy drivers….They are insane and they do die for it…I try to be safe, only overtake when I can see clear, blow horns on the severe turns and still you face a decision to hit the ditch or be hit…Many of these places I do not think you would be found for quite some time…If every…Track your phone I guess might work… The last wild frontier…All of central America is much more developed….Colombia and Ecuador are also very developed compared to Peru….Peru is a land that a large majority of the people just have a basic education or no education….This contrasts Lima where the masses are gathering, but all in a large city environment…Peru will stay this way, because of vast Amazon forests in the west and the vast high altitude mountain regions…The eastern flakes are some of the poorest, barren desert like areas in the world…I know why the Sarced valley was so treasured by the Incas….It is the only place with water, good soil and cool environment….That is where I am now in the valley , the sacred valley of the Inca…
Citizen ship I could get very easy here and I might to be able to have a better ID…They take in all major nationalities…Lot of German, Russian, European people here for that reason
The economy make no sense however…I would starve here as you must find a way to make it with people with no money to spend for anything…
No doubt it has changed my life …as I fully respect the USA for everything we enjoy in life….Anyone would be in total awe of the USA…It seem impossible for them to realize just some of the basic things we have…
Still hoping soon the countries will start opening up their borders to land travel…..I MUST continue my pursuit of the southern reaches of this continent….Patogonia and beyond…
I have thousands of High resolution photos which eventually I will share with you…Not easy down here
Everyone have a wonderful Christmas season and if you have your health you have everything…I have it all, good health and love for life…I miss the most being with my grandkids…my grown up kids, and at my home and business….Miss everyone…Lauren has been holding my fort down with courage, wisdom and hard work…
My son has been very impressive with all the balls he has to keep in the air for his personal life and business life ….All of you are my support link back to Home and I will come home…
Sincerely
Michael Jones”

IMG_0590.png
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators

I am headed back to Mexico City on Monday night, arrive at 3:00 am Tuesday.  I'll resume my trip south from there.

Plan to head into the States of Oaxaca and Chiapas then into Guatemala.  I have a buddy, Jose Pinto, there with Azimut Moto tours and the Triumph Dealer there wants to get together too.  I'd like to stay there two weeks but we have a lot of hurricane relief projects now in Honduras so I may hurry through Guacamole to get to Honduras.

There's a fun tour here in Colombia in Feb with EpiCo out of Cali I'd like to catch up with as well as follow Tom and a few others through Ecuador, Peru, Chile, etc... but not sure if I can catch up with them.  I may head over to Brasil and go south through Uru/Paraguay then Argentina.

eb8489ac-e3bc-4719-8902-a614d88b29a2.JPG

b9b054c9-002a-4e8e-aba5-eb65c87a2616.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators

Had an overnight flight to Mexico City Monday night and was wiped out Tuesday but got the bike!

 

Stayed with a really cool host from Couchsurfing named Lucio. He’s a veterinarian and has the coolest place with a rooftop garden and super nice cat who lost his front left leg to an alligator!

 

Rode to Oaxaca yesterday and stayed with a nice family. This young lady Criz rode her bicycle through ten countries before being hit in Peru by a motorcyclist! She has recovered and plans to return in January.

 

They are buying clean water to drink so I did a filter installation and now they are quite happy!

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Administrators

Guatemala border crossing went very well. I didn’t have to pay anything to leave which I had read online (don’t believe everything you read). Didn’t have to pay the Guatemalan customs anything either.

Made it to Huehuetenango and had a really bad experience with a place called Unicornio Azul. Never stay there. Not just because it’s really cold and high altitude but the owner has a real attitude and manages to piss off most her guests. I inquired two days early about a room and got no response. I called the morning of and left a voicemail and got an auto text response to which I also responded asking for a room. No response. I get there and despite seeing not a single vehicle, I was told they’re “full.” Wasted 2.5 hours of my time.

Good news is I found a great hostel in Huehuetenango run by a few really great guys and a friendly cat calles El Marquisote. Did a filter installation for them too.

Next stop was San Marcos la Laguna which is one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen. I stayed with Cisco Prahl. Super nice guy.

Adjustments.jpgAdjustments.jpgAdjustments.jpgAdjustments.jpg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators

San Marcos la Laguna is a small town on Lake Atitlan that is absolutely breathtaking.

Cisco Prahl invites me to stay with him and he’s really quite a remarkable guy. He’s an accomplished businessman, GS Trophy finalist and scratch golfer. He may end up turning his lake front home into a moto hostel at some point too.

Cisco invited me on a tour of Guatemala with 13 other rider friends and that has been a total blast. More on that later...

His driveway is super steep: 50 degrees! He filmed me coming and going just in case I fell

IMG_1024.jpg8327a5ef-53b8-4a83-a12d-5e010e17f1ff.jpg
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators

Cisco invited me to join him and his friends on a tour of Guatemala so naturally I said yes. Really great group of guys.

We went to Rio Dulce and this day was actually my first day of rain since the start of the trip! My Klim Carlsbad suit did very well! My hands were wet but no bid deal.

Next day was a boat trip to an island resort in the jungle! We saw some Mayan ruins the next day at Aguateca.

1A8158F7-C4FC-48DF-B5CE-9FABD6BD5C63.jpg970f2d3e-89fc-4939-b339-4a2fc93569be.jpgAdjustments.jpgf7f5363e-cbbc-47d9-b7e9-12814b1c6cea.jpg4b7218df-a965-496c-bd8d-f547d0b0301b.jpg69466369-6426-4e12-8545-62f85b2cf959.jpg
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators

Next was Santa Elena/Flores and visiting the much larger ruins of Yaxha. Saw a croc, howler and spider monkeys.

We climbed to the top of the highest pyramid and watched the sunset of the shortest day of the year.

8.5 hour ride back in the rain yesterday to Guatemala City. Will see the local Triumph dealer, Moy, today and check out a service light that came on yesterday.

Not sure what’s next. It’s Christmas so everything kind of comes to a halt here. Many places like hotels and Airbnb’s are booked so I may do a hostel in Antigua the next two weeks or try to crash at some friends’ homes if they let me . I’d like to return to Atitlan after the 4th but we shall see.

Adjustments.jpg2010c9df-8d0a-41b4-a45d-6029b7593e3e.jpgAdjustments.jpg
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...