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Replacing Chain/Sprockets - Tiger 800 XC

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I'm replacing chain and sprockets on the Tiger 800 XC this weekend if the weather isn't too nice... Any hints or tips for me? I've never done a chain or sprockets as most of my bikes have been shaft drive in the past :/ I figure bang pound and kick till the old is off and push and shove till the new are on? How bout torque values for the sprockets and axle?

Edited by Nate J.

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Be sure to loosen the front sprocket first, before removing the drive chain. Put the bike in neutral, have someone step on the rear brake lever and if possible, use an air impact wrench. It's torqued at 85Nm and is threadlocked. The nut is big @ 36mm.

 

The rear is pretty self explanatory. Some say to always replace sprocket nuts & bolts, but this is not a hard/fast rule for me. I will typically reuse them once. Our bikes have a cush drive, so the hardware doesn't get as beat up as say on a typical dirt bike. But, if in doubt, install new ones. The rear sprocket to cush drive nuts torque at 55Nm.

 

The one thing that I don't like about the Tiger is that there are no alignment lines on the swingarm and rear axle block. So, you'll have to do some measuring to be sure that the wheels is square in the swingarm. Otherwise you're reducing the useful life of the drive components. Chain adjuster nuts torque to 15Nm and the rear axle at 110.

 

Since these components must stay torqued, I'd use some blue threadlocker (IMHO, red is too much) on the front sprocket and rear sprocket nuts. I would not use locker on the chain adjuster nut or axle.  Also, if you're especially anal, use some of this stuff on the rear sprocket nuts.

http://www.amazon.com/Tamper-Proof-Torque-Mark-Red/dp/B007ID3SLK

 

Tiger 800 Torque Settings.pdf

 

Dykem%20Cross%20Check%20Application-500x

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Bryan you are the MAN! The 36MM nut would have been a trip to the store after I got started - everyone knows how irritating that is. Thanks for the full answer and torque settings - very helpful.

 

Happy to help Nate. What did you choose for a chain and sprockets?

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Adding a little more snap down low, eh... Let me know how that works out. I'm been thinking of one down in the front too. I'm sure you'll loose a little top end, but who rides that fast? Not me...

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I'm finding that 16/50 is stock for the 2011 - 2015. I suspect the the previous owner geared yours down. For slower off-road riding, that's a good thing IMHO.

 

Stock ratio is 3.125 and 50/15 is 3.33.

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Interesting! I was thinking I could stand to go lower before I knew that - Just so you know 75 on the freeway is not problematic at all with a 15 tooth front, and I can pop the front wheel over obstacles at lower speeds ;)

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Ok. So. 14x50 tooth set up. Yup. Its the bomb. If you're riding mostly off-road this is where the magic is happening. First gear becomes a real life first gear. Second gear becomes extremely useful in slow uphill switch backs. It also makes lifting the front much easier. 3rd gear is now much more usable and sounds much better. You're a little higher in the Rev rage but that's where this motor wants to be but it's hard to ride that fast. Yes sixth is going to be a little less useful on the high way. I also haven't hit any highway with it, but 70 mph offroad and i think i was still below 6 grand. I think. Anyway. On the asphalt i can slide the rear on tight first gear turns and if it's dusty it will burn the rear in second in a straight line with a clutch dump. (I've got vee rubber 401 knoobies on the bike calm down.) A neat little fun fact. The motorcycle gearing calculator website also says for chain longevity the 14x50 is optimal for not landing on the same tooth with the same chain link. High five for that. Would i do it again. Yes.

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I was just planning to fit 14 tooth front sprocket.  My chain is almost new - will the stock chain fit?? 

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