Be sure to loosen the front sprocket first, before removing the drive chain. Put the bike in neutral, have someone step on the rear brake lever and if possible, use an air impact wrench. It's torqued at 85Nm and is threadlocked. The nut is big @ 36mm.
The rear is pretty self explanatory. Some say to always replace sprocket nuts & bolts, but this is not a hard/fast rule for me. I will typically reuse them once. Our bikes have a cush drive, so the hardware doesn't get as beat up as say on a typical dirt bike. But, if in doubt, install new ones. The rear sprocket to cush drive nuts torque at 55Nm.
The one thing that I don't like about the Tiger is that there are no alignment lines on the swingarm and rear axle block. So, you'll have to do some measuring to be sure that the wheels is square in the swingarm. Otherwise you're reducing the useful life of the drive components. Chain adjuster nuts torque to 15Nm and the rear axle at 110.
Since these components must stay torqued, I'd use some blue threadlocker (IMHO, red is too much) on the front sprocket and rear sprocket nuts. I would not use locker on the chain adjuster nut or axle. Also, if you're especially anal, use some of this stuff on the rear sprocket nuts.
http://www.amazon.com/Tamper-Proof-Torque-Mark-Red/dp/B007ID3SLK
Tiger 800 Torque Settings.pdf