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HeavyHustler

'12 990 ABS Removal

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So I have been planning on removing my ABS off my 2012 990 for a while now.  3 reasons: One I've not had a bike that had it before so I'm not fussed really.  The second is my abs system wasn't functioning properly, I dented the front ring, so I pulled the fuses for it.  Thirdly, I had no rear brake.  During removal I found the fluid to be dark brown and very little of it in the rear system???

So after some research I found this fellow riders plan of attack-  however I did a few things different (in red).

KNOBIE

I removed mine. Not just the fuses but almost the entire thing. Here's how it went:

Bike is a 2012 990ADV-S (white) with 3000mi on it. (Same as mine.)

1. Removed the 2 ABS fuses on the right side of the skid plate (20A and 40A)

2. Removed the rear wheel pick up sensor.

3. Removed the rear wheel metering disk.

4. Removed the brake line from the rear MC to the ABS pump.

5. Removed the other rear brake line from the ABS pump and connected it to the MC by routing it under and around the swing arm's bolt. This gives it enough strain relief for the suspension to work. Ziptied the line to the frame so it clears the brake pedal connection rod to the MC.  (I looped mine as you will see in the pictures.  I also taped up the connector for the rear sensor, see pictures.)

6. Removed the brake line connecting the front MC and the ABS pump.

7. Removed the brake line coming from the front calipers off of the ABS pump and re-connected it to the front MC.It took some innovative routing due to the extra length and different angle of the banjo crimped terminal but it worked fine. Maybe one day I'll buy a shorter brake line. Not worried about it.  (I was able to snag a set of used 950 brakes lines for $40 and I bought a double banjo bolt off eBay for $15)

8. Removed the ABS completely off the bike. However this caused the speedometer to stop working! 

9. Removed the electronics box from the ABS pump and reconnected it to the bike's harness. This fixed the electronics issue without side effects other than a red ABS light (on all the time with ignition on).

10. I had to make a plate with 4 holes to seal up the ABS electronics box (has an o-ring).

11. Bled the brake lines. Easier than I thought.

12. Relocated the ABS electronics box within its original underseat box which resulted in a much larger storage compartment. (So far mine is just sitting in the empty box as I have no pics of where he relocates his.)

13. The front pick up sensor and disk remained installed as it feeds the speedometer/odometer function. The ABS electronics box needs to remain connected to its harness.

14. The 2 fuses still removed.

Results:

- Positive, firm feel for both brakes

- More storage

- 5lbs lighter

- Easier brake bleeding

- NO MORE ABS!

- All reversible if needed. No alterations to any of the original parts needed.

The pictures show the various parts I removed from the areas I found them.  I also added the hose guides from the older 950 model and routed the front lines a little bit differently.  Everything seems to stay in place.  

 

Cheers,

Mark

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I got rid of all that a few months ago, and removed one of the front rotors. It's nice to have really responsive brakes now, zero mush.

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I think my next project is going to be to take apart the section of wiring harness that goes to the abs box and remove all the stuff that is now abandoned. The location of abs pump is a good spot to move the battery too. 

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1 minute ago, HeavyHustler said:

Eric- Rear brake is now working almost too well!  lol

 

Baller- interested in how your removing the loom will work. 

The rear brake was a total trip for me too. Initially, it worked so well that were times I didn't even know it was locked and the rear was sliding. Compared to before, I had to reposition my foot in order to get the rear to lock up. 

What I figure for the harness is, with the fuses removed the majority of the system isn't functioning. If it's offline than it can come off the bike. The goal is to trace the front wheel sensor wires through the bike, to the plug, cut into it there to keep the front sensor and remove everything that is no abandoned. 

If I had to guess, you could remove the rest of the abs pump/box and replace it with some small connectors. Maybe even a more direct route, say front wheel sensor straight to the front fairing where the ECU is. 

I guess the goal is to remove any extra wiring to make things easier when working on the bike, or troubleshooting possible wiring issues. I've built few off-road cars that required serious motor swaps, so I've stripped wiring harnesses and even built a few. There is nothing worse than ghost wiring, and functioning parts of a harness integrated into parts that are abandoned. 

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31 minutes ago, 556baller said:

The rear brake was a total trip for me too. Initially, it worked so well that were times I didn't even know it was locked and the rear was sliding. Compared to before, I had to reposition my foot in order to get the rear to lock up. 

What I figure for the harness is, with the fuses removed the majority of the system isn't functioning. If it's offline than it can come off the bike. The goal is to trace the front wheel sensor wires through the bike, to the plug, cut into it there to keep the front sensor and remove everything that is no abandoned. 

If I had to guess, you could remove the rest of the abs pump/box and replace it with some small connectors. Maybe even a more direct route, say front wheel sensor straight to the front fairing where the ECU is. 

I guess the goal is to remove any extra wiring to make things easier when working on the bike, or troubleshooting possible wiring issues. I've built few off-road cars that required serious motor swaps, so I've stripped wiring harnesses and even built a few. There is nothing worse than ghost wiring, and functioning parts of a harness integrated into parts that are abandoned. 

So the first thing that comes to mind is, even though I have the fuses removed, if that brain box is not attached the speedo will not work.  Not sure how or why but it's still functioning on some degree???

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Just now, HeavyHustler said:

So the first thing that comes to mind is, even though I have the fuses removed, if that brain box is not attached the speedo will not work.  Not sure how or why but it's still functioning on some degree???

Yes, the box has huge 20 pin connector on it. The method so far has been to ditch the pump, keep the entire connector to keep the speed working. So really the only thing you need in that big plug is the connections for the speedo. 

Figure, power lead to the abs pump is off-line, connections from the rear wheel abs ring are off-line, and I would guess there is probably a couple wires going from the abs pump to the dash for the abs light. 

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With the fuses taken out of the abs system, any wires leading to fuse block and wires from the fuses to the abs pump can be taken off. 

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I have a break coming up, I wanted to sort out the wiring and build a definitive way to do it. Probably build the abs bypass wiring so that it can be made into a kit. 

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