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Found 11 results

  1. 1 review

    https://rekluse.com/product/torq-drive-clutch-adventure/ Higher performance manual clutch.
  2. 4 reviews

    -2.5 lbs reduction in weight. The SAS Stage 3 kit is the most comprehesive emissions removal package we offer. No computer work to be performed here. Simply plug and play. Every piece you will need to completely remove the emissions hardware and add throttle body tunability as well. NOTE: To install this kit on a KTM Adventure 1190 2013-present, you must remove the throttle bodies and that is best done when installing an intake at the same time. IF balancing the throttle bodies on that model is not something you think you will ever do, we reccomend our SAS Stage 2 kit for that model. The SAS Stage 3 kit includes: For the SAS removal: 2 Rottweiler Performance SAS Plates 1 FI light dongle to stop the FI light from coming on when the SAS valve is removed 1 Billet aluminum plug to close hole in the air-box 1 Constant tension spring for the billet plug For the canister removal (Canisterectomy): 1 FI Light dongle to stop the FI light from coming on when the canister valve is removed 6' of Dakar style Tygon hose for running new fuel tank breather lines 2' of dakar style Tygon hose for running new throttle body sinchronizing hoses (See option below to add and save $10 on a Motion Pro 'Sync Pro' throttle body balancing tool) 2 thumb screw vacuum line caps 4-8mm spring clips for sinchronizing hoses 4-8mm (5/16) nylon hose guides
  3. 0 comments

    Amazing machine. I've noticed its not as high quality as a BMW but its definitely built for my riding style. KTM has come short on my deal and hasn't activated KTM my ride, hill assist, quick shift, or heated grips. They don't know how to make these options work. It's been a month sense I bought the bike and I haven't got to fully use my bike yet.
  4. 0 comments

    Saying that I am in love with this bike would be an understatement. Out of all the motorcycles I have owned throughout the years, the 1290 SA has been my favorite. Modifications: Rottweiler Stage 3 Intake Kit Blackdog Skid Plate Cyclops LED Headlights Cyclops LED Lightbar Mosko Moto Backcountry Bags Blackdog Oil Cooler Guard Rottweiler Stage 2 SAS and Canister Delete Rottweiler CRG Mirros Rox Risers Sagent Custom Seats SW Motech Rear Master Cylinder Guard
  5. Having a clutch that works correctly is key to being able transfer all the power your engine produces to the rear wheel (or wheels if you're a quad guy/gal). In this post I want to share some key clutch inspection techniques I use and recommend to help ensure your clutch works as it should. These tips are presented in a step by step format and are taken right from my book, The Four Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbook. Basket Inspection Inspect the driven gear which is secured to the basket. Look for damaged gear teeth and other imperfections. Grasp the gear and basket firmly, then try to twist the gear. The gear is secured to the basket either with rivets or fasteners. With use, the rivets or fasteners can loosen causing the gear to become loose. Most baskets use round rubber dampers to locate the gear to the basket, which are sandwiched behind the backing plate. The dampers can wear out and break, which will create excessive play between the gear and basket. Any looseness may have been accompanied by excessive gear noise or rattling sounds when the engine was previously running. On baskets with loose gears and riveted backing plates the corrective action which will need to be taken is to either replace the basket or drill the rivets out. The idle gear may need to be pressed off in order to remove the backing plate. Once this is done, holes can be tapped and bolts installed which will secure the gear in place. Any rubber dampers that have worn can be replaced with aftermarket options. Check out this article for more details on clutch basket damper replacement: How to repair your clutch basket dampers for less than $30. Inspect the needle bearing bore surface on the basket next. Run your fingernail across the bore feeling for signs of wear. The bearing surface should be smooth and free of imperfections. If the surface is grooved or worn the basket will need to be replaced. Inspect the area inside the basket where the large thrust washer resides. Wear should be minimal in this area. If any grooving is present, the needle bearing and spacer the basket rides on may have worn causing the basket to wobble or the pressed in steel insert has backed out, ultimately causing the face of the basket to rub on the edges of the washer. Check for bent clutch basket fingers on the basket. Then look for grooving on the basket fingers where the clutch discs come in contact with the fingers. Grooving is caused by the clutch discs slamming into the clutch basket fingers. Normally grooving will be more pronounced on the drive side fingers. Grooving is not abnormal and occurs through usage of the clutch. If any grooving is present, use the end of a pick to evaluate how deep the grooves are. Any grooving that can catch the end of the pick is also likely to be able to catch the edge of the clutch discs. When this happens, the clutch will have difficulty engaging and disengaging. If your bike had clutch disengagement/engagement problems prior to disassembly, basket grooving is the most probable cause. A file can be used to smooth the grooves so the discs no longer catch, however deep grooving is an indication that the basket is near the end of its life. When filing clutch basket fingers, attempt to remove as little material as possible and remove material evenly from all the fingers. Some manufacturers provide a specification for the clearance between the clutch disc tang and the basket fingers. This clearance can be measured by temporarily installing a clutch disc into the basket and using a set of lash gauges to check the clearance between the two parts. Both the clutch disc tangs and basket fingers will wear so if the clearance is outside the service limit it may be possible to prolong the life of the basket by installing new clutch discs. This is a short term fix however, and replacing both components at once is advisable. Bearing/Spacer Inspection Inspect the clutch hub needle bearing and spacer for signs of wear. The needle bearing will be replaced with a new bearing, but if the spacer is in good condition it will be reused. Check for grooving or concavity along the surface of the spacer where the bearing rotates. While the needle bearing won’t be reused, it can be inspected as well to help confirm any problems associated with the clutch basket or spacer. Hub Inspection There are two main areas on the clutch hub which will wear. First, grooving can occur on the splines which locate the clutch plates to the hub. The grooves are a result of normal clutch use and occur when the steel clutch plates rotate back and forth in the spline grooves. Any grooving which catches the end of a pick should be considered problematic. Careful filing to smooth the grooves or hub replacement are the two options available for remedying the issue. The clutch plates must be able to easily slide back and forth along the hub, otherwise clutch disengagement/engagement problems will occur. The second area susceptible to wear on the clutch hub is at the back face of the hub. This is where the outer clutch disc contacts the hub. When the clutch is engaged, the clutch disc and hub will rotate in unison. However, when the clutch is partially engaged or disengaged, the clutch disc will rub against the face of the hub causing both the hub and disc to wear. Look for uneven wear patterns and indications of how deep the clutch disc has worn into the clutch hub. If the face of the clutch hub has worn excessively or unevenly, the hub should be replaced. Pressure Plate Inspection The interaction between the pressure plate and clutch disc is identical to the situation previously described between the clutch disc and clutch hub. Wear will occur on the face of the pressure plate which contacts the outside clutch disc. Determine the condition of the pressure plate by looking for signs of excessive or uneven wear on the face of the pressure plate. Disc and Plate Inspection Both the clutch discs and clutch plates are designed to be wear items which will need replacement from time to time. Thickness and straightness are the primary inspection criteria used to determine if either component requires replacement. If there are any problems with any of the discs or plates replacing them as a set is best. Clutch Disc and Clutch Plate Inspection Clutch discs are made out of various compositions of fibrous materials which wear at different rates, while clutch plates are made from steel. Service manuals will specify a minimum thickness that the clutch discs and plates can be. This thickness can easily be measured by using a caliper. Take measurements at three to four locations around the clutch disc or plate to confirm either has not worn unevenly. Once all the disc and plate thicknesses have been measured, both should be inspected for warpage. This can be done by laying the disc or plate on a surface plate or other flat surface. A set of lash gauges are used to determine any warpage. The service manual should specify a maximum warpage value which is usually around 0.006” (0.15mm). Attempt to insert the 0.006” lash gauge underneath the clutch disc or plate at multiple points. If the feeler gauge slides beneath either of the parts, those parts are warped and should be replaced. Clutch discs which have been overheated due to excessive clutch fanning by the rider, not only may warp, but also emit an unpleasant stinky burnt smell. If a noticeable smell is present, the discs have overheated and should be replaced. Likewise, clutch plates that have overheated will likely be warped and exhibit discoloration. The discoloration is a sign of excessive heat build up. Once the clutch plates have overheated, the material properties of the plate change, the hardness is reduced, and the plate becomes less wear resistant. This means discolored plates should be replaced. Lastly, inspect the clutch disc tangs for wear, chipping, or damage. If any tangs are damaged the disc should be replaced. Clutch Spring Inspection Over time and due to normal clutch use, the clutch springs will shorten. Clutch spring minimum free length specifications are provided by manufactures and can easily be measured using a caliper. Clutch springs that are shorter than the minimum spec provided by the manufacturer will not have sufficient spring pressure to keep the clutch from slipping under heavy loads. Any springs at or past their service limits require the replacement of all springs as a set. This way when the new springs are installed, even pressure is applied to the pressure plate. I hope you enjoyed this passage from my book detailing clutch inspection. If you have additional tips you'd like to share please leave a comment! If you want more technical DIY dirt bike engine information, learn more about the book on our website or on Amazon. Simply follow the links below! The Four Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbook Amazon Store Thanks for reading! -Paul Olesen, DIYMotoFix.com
  6. 2 reviews

    Prevents engine stalls: Using principles of centrifugal force this clutch automatically engages and disengages base on RPM. This means you can come to a complete stop, in gear, without touching the clutch lever, and your bike stays running. Trouble finding neutral at a stop light? Never have to worry about that again. More traction: Core EXP™ delivers smooth and manageable power, providing high performance and traction control unique to the auto-clutch line. Retains manual override: You can override the clutch at any time just like a traditional clutch, never use the clutch again, or use both methods throughout the ride/race. With a clutch lever that feels and functions just like stock and engagement characteristics very similar to a manual clutch, you may not even realize this clutch is in your machine until it saves you from a time wasting stall or effortlessly powers you through that otherwise tiring section. Gold on an Adventure bike. Superior durability: Improved design reduces friction and heat build up by allowing more oil to be pushed through the clutch components. Updated wedge design also provides much better longevity than any previous design.
  7. My 2013 oil cooled gsa needs a battery. besides a shorai what are you guys running?
  8. 1 review

    The BoosterPlug is accepted worldwide, as a brilliant and affordable way to transform your Triumph from ”OK” to ”Absolutely Marvelous”. No need to spend a small fortune on complicated multi adjustable electronic devices + endless Dyno hours, to make your bike run as it should have from the factory. The BoosterPlug is installed in less than 10 minutes. It plugs directly into your bikes wire harness using original connectors – no cutting or splicing. A true Plug and Play solution that will make your bike so much better: - Improved and softer throttle response. - Harder acceleration. - No more low speed surging. - Stronger and more reliable Idle. - Reduced Puffing in your aftermarket exhaust. Full Manufacturer Info:http://www.boosterplug.com/shop/cms-21.html
  9. 1 review

    We NOW offer a 5-Year Warranty on the Bracket! If you somehow manage to break the bracket, we will replace it.* It continues to amaze us how many KTM 950/990 riders are not aware of the design flaw with the side stand bolt directly to the engine case on these bikes. This is the single most important mod you can do to your bike!! We feel, and MANY customers agree, our relocation kit is simply the BEST design that addresses this issue (it bolts the side stand directly to the engine case which can result in a cracked case if the side stand is contacted). Our design eliminates this connection to the engine case and uses a 1/4″ aluminum bracket to secure the side stand, which then bolts to the center stand and skid plate frame. The advantages of this design over others that are available elsewhere are simple: Easy to install with four bolts Keeps the side stand in the stock location You don’t have to disassemble the side stand safety switch Compatible with center stand The look is seamless to the bike Helps avoid a potential long walk home or VERY expensive repair bill Compatible with the Black Dog skid plates for both the Adventure and Super Enduro Simple. Plus, it looks good as it is anodized black with our BDCW logo tastefully etched into it. Yes, we still recommend this product with our rugged skid plate! It is cheap insurance from a $4,500 broken case! FITMENT: KTM 950 Adventure (standard / R/ S) - manufactured in 2005 or after (check the tag on the headstock on the bike - do NOT go by the model year) KTM 990 Adventure (standard / R/ S) - All Years KTM 950 Super Enduro - All Years KTM Adventure 950 - manufactured in 2003-2004 (can be used with modification - See instructions here) PRODUCT NOTES: If you are NOT running a center stand on your 950/990, we offer a spacer that is used to fill the gap that is normally taken up by the center stand. Please see “related items” below to purchase this spacer. Installing the side stand relocation kit on applications that do not use a centerstand will void the warranty on the kit. Installation instructions for BDCW Side Stand Relocation Kit Not a direct bolt-on for Adventure models MANUFACTURED in 2003 or 2004. Please check your bikes DATE OF MANUFACTURE, do not go by the year on the title. See instructions here. Modifying the bracket is not a viable option. KTM Rally Footpegs: Due to the fact that this relocation bracket moves the side stand assembly outward from the frame, it has been reported that there may be some interference between the side stand spring and shifter when using the KTM Rally Footpegs. It will be necessary to grind some material off the shifter to minimize this interference. Does NOT fit the 950SM, 990SM-T or 990 Super Duke. *Warranty does not cover any damage to the motorcycle itself or the cost of shipping.
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