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Found 22 results

  1. I put this in the review section as well but thought it might fit here to for discussion purposes. I got a lot of questions about it on Facebook after posting. TFX Suspension(130 front/142 rear) – First Look And by first look I literally mean first, at least here in the US at least. Woo hoo! Our good friend Isaac Feliu in Spain first turned me on to these shocks after he’s been so happy with them. I was always curious how he crossed those water bars in his videos so easily but now I’ve experienced it for myself. I’m honored to get the chance to test these new shocks from TFX Suspension distributed by Ted Porter’s Beemershop.com. My last set of shocks weren’t bad, but were nearing the end of their life (~35k miles) and really weren’t meeting my needs. It may not be fair to blame the shock really, because shocks are meant to be custom-built for your type of riding. When I first got the old shocks, I wasn’t as sure what my style of riding was, honestly. Admittedly, I was probably riding them out of spec (AZBDR w/loaded panniers). Because Ted Porter is such a nice guy (legendary customer service), he kindly offered to replace my previous aftermarket shocks with this new-to-him brand for me to try out. TFX has actually been around for quite a while and like many other top shock manufacturer’s is out of The Netherlands. It’s quite incestuous really. I hear there are many commonalities among the shock manufacturers and some shared technologies and cooperation. In some cases employees from one company can sometimes end up working at a competing company. Wilbers had some sort of relationship with Technoflex (early TFX), Tractive spun off from WP when WP was purchased by KTM, the founder of WP now works at Ohlins, Touratech sells Tractive shocks, TFX and Tractive have a joint venture to produce some really cool ATV shocks, and so on. That’s not to say that they’re all the same though. TFX distinguishes itself in a few key ways. First they are using the big stroke Tractive hydraulic preload adjuster which lifts 15mm as compared to most others at 10mm or less. This really helps when you have wide load variations. Although materials play a big role, other key differences are TFX’s engineering and the tuning of piston+shimstack+spring. That’s what they call their “true magic.” They also listen very carefully to what the specific needs of the rider are. Ted certainly plays a huge part in this. I’ll never forget the first time I called him. He spent 30 minutes with me explaining how the shocks work and what type of shock would probably work best for me. I’m still a novice rider, but I am at the end of that continuum that goes from the Saturday Starbuck’s rider to the extreme enduro dirt rider. Some TFX specifics: Five year warranty, fully rebuildable. Tractive 15mm stroke hydraulic preload adjuster option, 50% more lift than most other brands. The body of the shock is made from 6082-T6 alloy with type 3 hard anodizing providing high-strength and maximum heat dissipation All other parts are made from aircraft alloy 7075-t6 which is very strong The 16mm shaft is made from a very high quality 42CrMo4+QT They use aircraft alloy 7075-t6 bushings because they are very strong and light A floating piston in the reservoir separates the oil from the nitrogen All shocks have 42 adjustments in rebound damping with a wider knob than most for two finger adjustment even with a gloved hand The advanced models are 3 way type with high/low compression damping low speed compression 32 adjustments high speed compression 32 adjustments Enough of the nerd talk. I’m not a professional racer and I’m not really up on all the terminology. My feedback is going to be much more basic for the lay rider. The TFX are definitely more robust than what I had before. They are more solid and feel very planted. I rode fairly hard on them and did not bottom out once. I didn't find I was riding any faster because of that, just more confidently and safely. I didn't have to worry so much about each and every dip in the trail. I kept saying in my helmet via my Sena to Tolga behind me: "that's way easier than it used to be." When I got my first aftermarket shocks (Jan ’12) it was like going from a $20 pair of flip flops to a $100 pair of trail running shoes. These feel like $300 mid rise hiking boots. Sounds like a great start to me! I’m going to keep monitoring these over the next few months and we’ll see what kind of service, if any, they are going to require.
  2. 1 review

    F12 Fork Cartridge “S” , set for one bike. Complete hydraulic fork cartridge kit (cartridge, pumping rod, fork cap) that replace all the existing fork internals (springs excluded). Fork cartridge cylinder 20 mm in diameter in Alu alloy Al 7075, with lapping and hard oxidation surface treatment. Pumping rod 12 mm in diameter in Alu alloy Al 7075, with lapping and hard oxidation surface treatment. Compression and Reboud pistons 20 mm in diameter, machined from Aluminium billet, with its own dedicated shims pack and supported by oilless slide bearings. All internal and external Alu components, with anodic oxidation surface treatment. Fork kit supplied with a bottle of specific fluid (Motorex Fork SAE 7.5). Adjustments: Spring preload, mounted on axial roller bearings, with specific clicks and the possibility to act on the adjustments (+ preload -) without the help of the key. Rebound unit with specific clicks. Compression unit with specific clicks Please Note: this kit does not include springs. Works with stock springs. Picture of the cartridge with springs included = mounted with the stock springs.
  3. 1 review

    http://www.ridejbi.com/jbi-suspension-pro-valve-ktm-690-enduro-r/ http://www.ridejbi.com/jbi-suspension-pro-valve-tech-specs/ From their site: Model fitment: 2014-2018 KTM 690 Enduro R Improves fork plushness & ride comfort over small/medium bumps Provides sufficient bottoming control Better ride quality on road & off-road Improves sensitivity of fork compression & rebound adjustment clickers Features integrated "sub-valve" technology inspired by high end suspension systems Sub-valves provide an additional path/circuit for oil flow (damping) Improves initial breakaway fork "feel" Symmetrical high flow 4 port base valve piston design High flow piston features hard anodize finish Constructed with high strength long lasting materials Aerospace 7075 aluminum 18-8 stainless steel 316 stainless steel Easy install Remove oem base valve & replace with JBI Pro Valve, no other mods needed.
  4. 2 reviews

    ouratech Suspension is the world’s first purpose-built shock absorber for long-distance touring with a fully-loaded motorcycle. Right out of the box, it has the strength, features and adjustments to go the distance on the R1200GS or GSA with luggage. The Touratech Explore front shock is over-built by design with heavy-duty materials, over-sized components, spring pre-load adjustment, and adjustable rebound dampening. This shock has been specifically developed for optimum performance on BMW’s Telelever front end. We’ve put the shock through rigorous testing in real-world adventure touring environments to make sure it functions well on your R1200GS or GSA. This front shock is available in both a standard height and a low version which drops the seat by 2 inches. Use the drop down menu to select the standard or low version. It’s recommended to upgrade the rear shock at the same time you upgrade the front shock.
  5. 3 reviews

    http://www.touratech-usa.com/Store/126/PN-044-5880X/Touratech-Explore-HP-Rear-Shock-BMW-R1200GS-Adventure Touratech Suspension Features VideoThis video shows the features for each of the different levels of Touratech Suspension shocks. Why Touratech Suspension? Touratech Suspension is the world’s first purpose-built shock absorber for long-distance touring with a fully-loaded motorcycle. Right out of the box, it has the strength, features and adjustments to go the distance on your R1200GS or GSA hauling luggage. The Touratech Explore HP shock is over-built by design with heavy-duty materials, over-sized components, 50% more spring pre-load adjustment, and adjustable rebound dampening that’s tuned for optimal performance with a fully-loaded motorcycle. With an Explore HP shock, the preload can be quickly adjusted by turning the knob with your hand. It’s recommend to upgrade to an Explore front shock, when you upgrade the rear shock on your R1200GS or GSA. Click HERE to see the Explore front shock. “I could not be more satisfied with my Touratech Suspension. It worked flawlessly for 15,000 miles on my journey from Seattle to the southern tip of Argentina. I now recommend it for my GlobeRiders clients and any adventure motorcyclist that is heading out on a serious ride.” –Helge Pedersen Why do I need this? Motorcycle Manufacturer’s Shocks - The shocks found on new motorcycles are designed to be inexpensive and fit the needs of the average 170lb rider with 15lbs of luggage. As a result, they often meet the minimum standard for function. The performance of a stock shock is typically not confidence inspiring. With heavy loads, stock suspension “bottoms out” easily and doesn’t have sufficient preload or damping adjustment range. They aren’t serviceable and, with heavy loads, are prone to blown-out seals and other failures. The rider often feels the bike is too spongy and doesn’t handle properly. Aftermarket Shocks - Most after-market shocks are made with performance riding in mind, but aren’t built for use on a fully-loaded R1200GS or GS Adventure. Most can only withstand the weight of the rider and don’t offer good handling, or have adequate preload adjustment. They also aren't durable enough to go the distance with a fully-loaded touring bike. How is Touratech Suspension Different? •50% more preload adjustment than other shocks on the market. A generous 15mm of adjustment allows proper pre-load set-up for a fully-loaded R1200GS or GSA. Most shocks have 8-10mm which is not enough to accommodate long-distance quantities of luggage or a passenger. The Explore HP shock offers a convenient preload adjustment knob which hydraulically changesthe preload setting of your bike to compensate for the addition of a passenger or luggage. •A floating piston separates the air and the oil to prevent oil foaming. This technology ensures that your shock will have smooth and consistent performance even in punishing environments. •Cold forged 6082 T6 aluminum shock body machined to exacting standards offers high-strength and maximum heat dissipation. •High-strength stainless steel bushings ensure the mounting points of the shock will go the distance. •Low-friction seal with integrated Teflon back-up ring maximizes performance and extends the life of the shock. •Oversized 16mm high-strength shaft made of chrome-moly steel for maximum strength and durability. •Available in a range of spring rates to match the rider’s weight requirements. •Dampening set up for fully-loaded R1200GS or GSA right out-of-the-box. Key issues to consider when selecting a shock Hydraulic Preload Adjustment -With a Touratech Explore HP shock, the spring preload can be adjusted hydraulically by turning the knob with your hand. If you don’t anticipate changing your preload often, the Explore shock may be an option since it costs less and offers all of the same features except the quick-adjust preload knob. 50% More Spring Preload Adjustment- When you load your R1200GS or GSA with luggage and all the gear for a weekend trip or extended tour, the bike will sag under the weight of the load. Most shocks are NOT designed to handle this. With Touratech Suspension, you can adjust the pre-load to bring the bike back to level. Because of the full 15mm of adjustment you can raise the back of the motorcycle as much as 1.8 inches to compensate for the load which restores proper geometry for optimum handling and overall feel of the bike. Most shock preload adjusters only have 8-10mm of adjustment which can only raise the back of the bike by 1.2 inches. Floating Piston Superiority – Touratech Suspension uses a Floating Piston design which offers the best dampening performance because it physically separates the nitrogen gas from the oil. Most shocks use oil emulsion dampening which allows oil to mix with the nitrogen gas in a foaming process that basically ‘thins’ the oil and prevents the shock from working properly. When the oil is 'foamed' the bike bottoms easily and also springs up too quickly resulting in erratic handling and an unsteady ride. With the floating piston design of Touratech Suspension there is a physical separation of oil and nitrogen gas which means you can ride rough roads all day long and enjoy consistent high performance. Why buy a shock whose performance gets worse the harder you ride it? Before you invest in new suspension for your R1200GS or GSA make sure it’s a floating piston design. Stainless Steel Bushings - While many aftermarket shocks use aluminum bushings where the shock mounts to the motorcycle, Touratech Suspension uses high-strength, non-corroding stainless steel. This creates a strong and rigid connection which is important for a loaded R1200GS or GSA. The stainless steel bushings protect against corrosion and seizing and offer low maintenance and longer life. Low-Friction Seal – Our seals have a backbone that virtually eliminates friction interference on the dampening activity. On other shocks, the seal deforms as dampening pressure increases and causes stiction on the shaft. Touratech Suspension is equipped with a proprietary low-friction seal that is supported by Teflon back-up ring. This Teflon backbone keeps the seal from deforming and eliminates stiction on the shaft even at high pressures. The result is better performance, increased reliability and longer service life, even in harsh environments. Oversized high-strength shaft – While most manufacturers use a 14mm carbon steel shaft, Touratech suspension uses a 16mm high-strength chrome-moly steel alloy. Aluminum Shock Body – Some manufacturers use a steel shock body to reduce cost. Touratech suspension uses cold-forged 6082 T6 aluminum for the shock body because it’s lightweight, strong and durable. It also dissipates heat 30% more effectively than steel, which results in more stable and predictable dampening delivering better handling and a smoother ride. A cooler shock will also have more consistent dampening and a longer service life. Adjustable Rebound Dampening – Right out of the box, this shock is ready for adventure with its rebound dampening levels set for touring on a fully-loaded R1200GS or GSA. The rebound dampening is also fully adjustable so the ride can be customized to your preferences. Custom Springs – Touratech Suspension is available in a range of spring rates so we can ensure your shock has the proper spring for your application. Fully Serviceable – All Touratech Suspension is fully serviceable and can be customized or re-built by Touratech-USA or any qualified suspension technician. Summary – Touratech Explore HP Shock The Touratech Explore HP is an excellent upgrade from a stock OEM shock and a great alternative to other aftermarket shocks that have only oil-emulsion dampening or don’t offer enough pre-load adjustment. If you need a shock that will perform well for fully-loaded touring, this shock will improve your ride right out of the box. With 50% more preload adjustment than other shocks and the convenience of a hydraulic adjustment knob, the Explore HP is a great choice for your R1200GS or GS Adventure. Note: If you want the ultra convenient push-button electric preload adjustment consider upgrading to the Touratech Explore HP e (electric preload adjustment) Shock. If you want a shock with adjustable high and low-speed compression dampening and a remote reservoir, consider the Touratech Expedition Shock. For a step-by-step installation guide complete with pictures click HERE. Under the 'Instructions' tab please click on the link for the rider's profile, answer the questions, and paste them into the comments field during checkout, or email to [email protected] . This will help us ensure your shock is sprung specifically for your application.
  6. Thought I'd post a review from our site (https://www.welovemotogeo.com/first-impressions-touratech-suspension/)- a follow-up review is underway with impressions from the dirt (mostly the Australian Outback). I thought this might be helpful for folks looking these Touratech Suspension packages as an option for upgrading! In late July, our friends and sponsors at Touratech USA set up an opportunity for us to meet the crew at Touratech HQ in Niedereschach, Germany while getting a huge upgrade to our stock suspension on both our bikes. My bike, a BMW R1200GS was set for an Explore Front and an Expedition Rear while Nita’s F650GS Twin with it’s lowered suspension was getting a Progressive Fork and Shock Spring upgrade. With Nita’s stature we had to consider seat-height when making a decision on which upgrade to get; the new Touratech Suspension series didn’t come in a configuration for factory-lowered bikes and while we could have opted for a set of Explore Shocks with a lowered seat, it still would have increased her seat height by about an inch and a half – a little too much to feel comfortable with a fully-loaded adventure bike. Rather, we opted for the spring upgrade which kept the seat height almost the same while giving the bike a much-needed boost in the suspension department. Even before beginning our journey fifteen months ago, we frequently heard of the stock suspensions propensity for failure – and usually at the worst possible moment. We’ve seen folks prepare for this eventuality by leaving a spare with loved ones, all the way to taking a spare with them on their journey – an option that was simply out of the question for us. When we heard that Touratech had developed an adventure-specific shock, we were excited to try it out. Out of the box you can see a difference in the way these things are made. Frankly, it makes my old shock look flimsy by comparison. The list of features is long; 15mm of preload adjustment, adjustable high-and low-speed compression damping, adjustable rebound damping, a floating piston and a 16mm high-strength shaft. In plain language, it means that Touratech Suspension is designed to be stronger, perform more consistently under heavy use, and offer a greater degree of adjustability/customization. On paper and in our hands, they’re quite impressive! But how are they in reality? For the first month after we installed the suspension upgrades, we travelled 5500+ km from Germany to north of the Arctic Circle in Norway, and back down through Sweden, Finland and the Baltic – mostly on roads of varying conditions – from excellent tarmac to dirt, and from wide-open highways to narrow twisting tracks. We hadn’t covered a lot of purely off-road terrain on this leg due in-part to time, planning and learning how to work with the new set-up properly. Previously, my R1200GS used the stock ESA rig and I could tell it was beginning to suffer under the load of our first 50000km on the road. An increasingly bouncy ride left my confidence in corners seriously wanting and, at times, had me questioning my abilities where I hadn’t before. The feeling of being connected to the road was disappearing, and off-road the feel through the pegs and handlebars was vague. Using the ESA was, while convenient, simply not able to find a sweet-spot for the way I was riding with a ladened bike. Nita’s suspension was in far worse condition. Her factory lowered suspension had frequently bottomed out on roads in Northern Africa, and off-road riding was feeling sloppy and uncontrolled. While her bike looked heavy, the load she was carrying (after weighing) was well within stock limits. Riding our newly outfitted bikes back to the guesthouse from Touratech was our first eye-opener; never had the front-end felt so stable and planted. With the bikes unloaded and travelling at low speeds, they felt as if there was something pushing the tires into the ground. Nita’s experience was much the same. It was fantastic! Another interesting sensation was feeling much taller than we had before – something exacerbated by riding the bikes without their usual loads. Knowing that the majority of our journey would be spent aboard fully-loaded bikes, the crew at Touratech had set the spring-rate and suspension accordingly to improve our experience right out of the box. The next day we decided to take the unloaded bikes for a rip through the Black Forest to get an idea of how they would handle unburdened with the new suspension – a trip that produced the second eye-opener. In fifth gear, as the speed increased, so did the feeling that the bikes were about to deliver a substantial wobble. It was a reproducible feeling – any sudden inputs into the handle-bars created a wobble that left the front-end feeling disconnected from the rear. While it was incredibly unsettling, it was also a revelation as to how bad our previous setups were. Loaded or unloaded we could just plod along all day on the stock suspension never really appreciating what we were missing. A performance upgrade like this requiresadjustment when the load changes. Lesson learned! We figured that once loaded, the bikes would behave themselves nicely. To test the theory, we loaded the bikes as we normally would and left the damping and preload as set by Touratech. As expected, the performance was very good – the stability of the bikes was spot on from first to fifth gears and anywhere from 1 – 115 kph. With sudden inputs the bike immediately felt more planted and no longer threatened me with a high-speed wobble, but it was still a little twitchy for my personal riding style. A quick measurement of sag on the R1200GS revealed that a little more preload was needed and, after dialing it up four clicks, the improvement in handling at speed was instant. With the sag set to where it needed to be, I adjusted the high-speed compression damping and rebound damping by a couple of clicks each and the change in bike-feel was simply astounding. While turning these tiny adjusters I have to admit my faith in them making a substantial change to handling was pretty low, but after taking the bike to 130 kph/80 mph, it never once protested – even with sharp inputs. It was a remarkable change. While the level of adjustability could be a bit daunting at first, it allows the rider to create exactly the feel they want. Like plenty of feel from the front? You can do that. Like to feel tall? You can do that. Like a hard ride? You can do that. Whatever you want, you can set up Touratech’s Suspension with very little effort. Off-road, I can honestly say I’ve never felt so confident. While I’d like to reserve my opinion after many more miles spent in the dirt, the initial rides have been incredibly promising. Once again there’s a feeling of being connected to the ground that completely evaded us before and a responsiveness to inputs that puts the bikes where we want them without debate. While Nita’s Touratech spring upgrade offered less adjustability (since it’s using new springs with stock hardware), the difference in her riding has been incredible. Her F650GS had always been spongy and vague when loaded. The result had been a steady decline in confidence in both the bike and her own skills. On fast roads the stock springs felt unstable beyond 110 kph/68 mph while tight roads and switchbacks sometimes caused bottoming-out under full-load. In Nita’s words, the new setup has completely changed the way she rides. Feeling more planted and in control, seeing her fade into the distance as I overtake on the highway is a thing of the past. Now, she’s right there with me feeling very comfortable into the mid 120’s (75 mph). In switchbacks and corner-rich roads she’s also discovered a new level of confidence, gliding through the turns in a way that more resembles her time on a sport bike than the stock F650GS. It’s incredibly satisfying to see the bike catch up to her skills after all this time on the road. Off-road, the difference for her is also much improved. We should note that she uses two different settings on her bike for highways and twisties – a small preload and rebound adjustment that takes about 30 seconds which creates the right feel for her. Before this test I’ve honestly always looked at suspension upgrades as expensive and daunting, but now I couldn’t imagine our bikes without them. Of every upgrade we’ve ever made to our bikes (current and previous) none have fundamentally changed the bikes performance – or the way we ride – as much as these have. For our journey, having suspension designed specifically for fully-loaded adventure bikes has made for more fun on (and off) the roads, and removed one more item from our worry list. Touratech’s Suspension offering has been an eye-opener for us and the mix of durability, adjustability and performance has us riding what feels like two new bikes. We’ll report back in a few months after we’ve put about 25000 km on them but our first impressions are extremely good and we’re excited to continue putting this incredible piece of kit to the test. Issa’s Set-up: Touratech Expedition Rear Shock Touratech Explore Front Shock Nita’s Set-up: Touratech Progressive Fork and Shock Lowered Spring KitUseful Resources: How-To: Setting Suspension Sag How-To: Adjusting Touratech Suspension
  7. Whats the best process in cleaning under the front fork dust seals. Mainly what solvent or high pressure air?
  8. 1 comment

    Great ride. Had a 2012 road that I started with and upgraded when I found a deal on a used XC. Larger front wheel and better suspension were huge. That said, the the stock suspension sucks for someone bigger than average. With some upgrades it has been a great dual sport and tourer.
  9. 1 review

    We let the mad-scientists build the shock of their dreams with this product. When we asked for the absolute highest performance shock they could imagine, they developed the Touratech Extreme Shock. If NASA built suspension for the R1200GS they’d be happy with this one. You know the feeling… you see a pot hole last minute and feel the force of the hit radiate through your body as your shock bottoms out. Well, the Touratech Extreme Shock has advanced technology to make bottoming out a thing of the past. This shock has a secondary compression dampener that goes into action when your shock approaches the end of its stroke. Combine this PDS “bottoming control technology” with a remote reservoir, fully adjustable high-speed and low-speed compression dampening, adjustable rebound dampening, remote reservoir, low friction seals and 50% more preload adjustment than other shocks on the market and you begin to see why this is the shock of choice for R1200GS or GSA riders who want the ultimate in touring performance.
  10. 0 comments

    The greatest Bike I've owned to date, Opened a world of back road fun !!
  11. 2 reviews

    High quality front and rear suspension for BMW Motorcycles, the 131 & 141 models include continuous preload adjustment as well as extension and high/low speed compression settings (45 clicks). They are built manually for the rider bike, height/weight and ridding style. TFX brings you the quality and capabilities you need to get the most from your bike. The TFX shocks are custom-built and are personalized to your needs and expectations. These shocks are suited for street use but also for Race track. They will give you the comfort, control, safety and durability you need and ask from your shock absorbers. Why a hose? This mono shock will be used for bikes with a lack of space. Due to the fact that the hose is flexible we can mount the reservoir in a variety of positions. We always try to find the most suitable position so that adjustments can be done easily and having the advantage of the airflow which gives extra cooling. The TFX 131-141 shock features both rebound as well High/low speed compression adjustment. Our TFX shock absorbers are based on a modular system. This means we can replace/repair each individual part. Due to this our twin bike shock has a long life and is easy to service
  12. This should apply to the GS as well and to all the oilhead models. No pics (yet) but I am happy to report no bloody knuckles. I got one minor scratch on my right middle finger. For anyone looking to change their front shock (rear is pretty easy), here's how to do it... First you want to remove your lower engine guards. This can be a challenge for some because the top fasteners tend to be hard to get to and loosen without stripping. Then you wan to remove the alternator belt cover. Why? Because it gets in the way of pulling out the shock and putting the new one in later. Next you want to remove a screw holding the front brake line on the right side of the bike. If you don't do this then you won't have slack to droop the front suspension low enough to get the shock out. It's tight in there and I found an L-shaped torx from my tool kit was the best solution. You have to somehow jack the bike up from the skid plate but with the rear still on the ground. I was able to lift it (with a friend) on top of my pannier, but a floor jack is probably ideal and safer. I also secured the bike with a strap from the middle of the handlebars to a hook firmly screwed into a beam in the roof of my garage. Then remove the top tank panel, as well as the two side panels and gas cap (four black screws). I put a rag in the tank opening so those screws holding the gas cap on don't accidentally fall in. Leave the front screws on the side plastic pieces secure; just take off the other two. These are just metal panels; it's really not that hard. Remember the longer screws go in that middle hole of the side plastic pieces. The rest should be roughly the same length. At this point you should be able to put a socket on the top bolt of the shock and take that top nut off. If you have a nifty ratcheting box-end wrench then you may be able to get away with not removing the top tank panel. It might be 15mm or 17 mm or in my case 11/16ths". Not a lot of room to work with. Keep the top bushing/spacer and remember to put it back on top of the new shock later. Remove the lower shock bolt from the right side. At this point, the shock should fall out of the top bracket and come loose from the lower mount. If it doesn't come loose from the lower mount, you can knock it back with a rubber mallet or something until it comes free. Also be sure to keep the rubber bushings and/or spacer that goes on top of the shock but below the top bracket. Then simply put the new shock in but make sure you put the top rubber washer below the bracket back on the new shock. Put the top end in first, then you can slide it forward and down into the lower shock mount. Tighten down the lower shock bolt to 30 ft/lbs/40 Nm and some blue loctite. At this point you can lower your bike back to the floor and on its center stand. Make sure the top of the shock is properly seated through the hole in the bracket. Place that other rubber washer you removed from your other shock on top and then secure with the top nut. I put a bit of blue loctite on it. Tighten down to 25 ft/lbs/34 Nm. Ah, but the shock turns when you try to tighten it! At first I tried a strap wrench but it wasn't really gripping. I finally found the crescent wrench from my tool bag (or 19mm open end wrench) would fit on the very top nut below the top bracket and prevent the shock from turning when you're tightening it. Yes, you will need the assistance of a buddy (two man job). Then you can put the alternator cover back on (not a bad time to consider changing your belt if it's been on there for more than 24K miles), as well as re-secure the front brake line on the right side. Then put your lower engine bars back on. That also can be a challenge and take two sets of hands and maybe some straps to pull the upper bars into alignment so you can attach them to the lower bars.
  13. 1 review

    The Hyperpro fork springs will eliminate the deep dive under braking, provide excellent feedback and handling. Front: Hyperpro progressive rising rate fork springs with fork oil at $ 159.00 The front fork was designed to use the maximum front fork stroke, and to withstand heavy breaking so that it won’t disturb the front grip. Our progressive spring kit is available with fork oil and a manual for adjustment instructions. Rear: Hyperpro progressive replacement spring for the OEM shock is $ 139.00. Our progressive rear spring is designed to smoothly transfer engine power to the road whilst controlling your bike. This will ensure more stability and will significantly reduce tire wear. These springs are not only suitable on the track, but are also suitable on the road. It absorbs irregularities in the roads, and saves you from hitting the bump while transporting persons or heavy loads. Hyperpro supplies a specific rear spring that fits on your OEM shock. In this case when the shock still has damping and is not leaking, it is possible to exchange the “soft” original spring with a Hyperpro progressive rear spring. Rear springs are available in the colors Hyperpro Purple and Black.
  14. 0 comments

    I have done almost everything with that bike. Long distance Trip? Done. Short weekend trip? Done. OffRoad? Done. Extreme Offroad? Done. RaceTrack? Done. City run? Done. And it shines on all and every aspect of motorcycling. Low fuel consumption (given it's weight and power), awesome torque, handling on pavement is just awesome, offroad handling is not that great, but once you get used to the telelever shit... it will bring you anywhere no matter what. So far, If I had to buy another motorcycle today.... i would buy exactly the same bike. :)
  15. SUSPENSION TROUBLESHOOTING This information contains a list of concerns, and solutions to the most common problems riders have with their suspension. Damping Extreme's 1. Too much rebound damping (also known as packing) The suspension is held down in the stroke because it cannot rebound fast enough and each bump created additional compression. The ride becomes harsh due to too much force being needed to initiate movement. This also creates a loss of traction due to tire deflection. 2. Too little rebound damping (Pogo) When there is too little rebound, there is not enough control of the spring energy. This causes a pogo like action. This can cause vertical movement that can lift the wheel off the ground, and cause a loss of traction. 3. Too much compression damping (harshness) When you have too much compression damping, this will cause the front wheel to deflect off the rock, log, stump, root, or rut on impact because there is too much resistance to movement. This will equal are harsh ride. 4. Too little compression damping (bottoming) The wheel moved past the crest of the crest of the whoop, rut, log, rut during compression and is not able to follow the backside of the bump causing a loss of traction. This will feel mushy an can bottom easily. There are a number of conditions that contribute to your everyday suspension action. There are so many variables that go into suspension set-up that are completely unnoticed. Something as simple as changing the brand, and type of tire can affect your suspension positively or negatively. The section below will go into troubleshooting your suspension action. Forks Bottoming 1. Oil level is too low. 2. Not enough low speed compression damping 3. Not enough high speed compression damping 4. Spring rates are too soft 5. Not enough pre-load 6. Valving shims are distorted. Too stiff-Deflects, Harsh, Nervous, Twitchy 1. Too much compression damping adjustment, high speed, and or low speed 2. Too much compression damping internally 3. Spring rates are too stiff 4. Too much low speed rebound damping= packing 5. Oil level is too high 6. Stiction Poor traction 1. Poor tire/compound 2. Too much tire pressure 3. Tire pressure too low 4. Too much low speed rebound damping 5. Too much low speed compression damping 6. Too little low speed rebound damping 7. Not enough low speed compression damping Not enough weight of the front end: 1. Axle placement is too short 2. Swing-arm is too short 3. Sitting too far back 4. Bars to high, or sweep too much Doesn't turn This happens to be the most misunderstood and misdiagnosed fork symptom. It typical is more of a geometry issue, than a suspension issue, though these do overlap. Do the bars turn easily, or is hard to turn the bars? If it is easy to turn start with section 3 (poor traction) then 5 (pushes) If it is hard to turn (requires excessive force) go to section 6. A. Tire profile is too flat or wide B. Riding position- not enough weight on the front end 1. Seat too low 2. Bars too high C. Riding style (not everything is the bike) 1. Riding style 2. Rider doesn't understand the concept of counter steering 3. Not weighting the front end 4. Elbow down riding style 5. Sitting too far back 6. Rider centerline to outside of bike centerline 7. Not looking through turns Pushes (Easy to turn the bars, but the bike doesn't turn, low traction) 1. Front end rides too low in comparison to the rear (check sag) 2. Raise the forks (slide forks down in triple clamps 3. Lower the rear end 4. Fork springs too soft 5. Not enough fork pre-load 6. Low speed rebound too high, causing packing 7. Not enough low speed compression damping 8. Increase low speed compression damping 9. Anything that makes the rear higher than the front (Sag) Takes excessive force to turn the bars (Plenty of traction, doesn't complete the turn. This is more of a geometry issue that suspension action.) 1. Front end is riding too high 2. Lower the front end 3. Too much spring pre-load 4. Spring rates too stiff 5. Rear ride height too low (Sag) 6. Forks have too much air (bleed forks) 7. Lower the rear end (Sag) 8. Too much low speed compression damping 9. Too narrow of a bar 10. Sticky forks (Stiction) Dives under braking 1. Modern forks should, linkage (BMW) front ends may even rise 2. When braking the dive is controlled by spring forces only (rate, pre-load, and air gap) valving has nothing to do with this. 3. Fork angle is too flat, choppered out, too much rake 4. Fork springs too soft Feels loose 1. Not enough low speed rebound damping 2. Not enough high speed rebound damping only on big bumps 3. Not enough compression damping 4. Spring rate too soft 5. Steering bearings loose or worn out 6. Swing arm bearings, or linkage bearings worn out 7. Tire pressure to low or high 8. Fork flex, chassis flex, swing arm flex 9. Suspension needs servicing (oil broken down, bushings worn) 10. Worn out rebound piston bushing (rare) Sticky forks 1. Misaligned forks 2. Triple clamps bent 3. Bent fork tube 4. Bent axle 5. Bushings worn 6. Poor bushing design 7. Upper tube anodizing worn 8. Air pump (seals worn) 9. Poor quality seals 10. Poor oil quality 11. Triple clamps too tight 12. Misaligned fork tube height 13. Forks not broken in (twin chamber) 14. Metal imbedded in bushings (Pre-load washers not located properly, aluminum washers, steel springs directly on aluminum caps, fork caps improperly installed) Headshake (Fast side to side movement of the bars) 1. Chassis not straight- twisted or offset 2. Misalignment of wheels, axle marks off 3. Fork flex, chassis flex, swing arm flex 4. Not enough trail-not enough self centering effect 5. Worn out or loose steering bearings, binding, dragging 6. Too much trail- returns past center than re-corrects the other way quickly 7. Oil level too high 8. Not enough low speed rebound damping 9. Too much high speed compression damping-deflects on bumps 10. Tire pressure too high or too low 11. Poor tires 12. Tire not properly mounted 13. Wheel out of balance-bent rim 14. Brake rotor is bent 15. Sticky forks Chatters (This can be a vibration/harmonic problem when the input frequency matched the natural frequency of the suspended system, This is often confused with and can cause headshake) 1. Not enough pre-load damping 2. Not enough compression damping 3. Spring rates to stiff 4. Too much compression damping 5. Too much rebound damping 6. Too much or too little tire pressure 7. Poor tire design 8. Chassis flex 9. Sticky forks Bounces off the ground on jump landings 1. Bottoms heavily (see #1) 2. Not enough high seed rebound damping 3. Not enough low speed rebound damping Deflection 1. Too much high speed compression damping 2. Spring rates too stiff 3. Too much pre-load 4. Too much low speed compression damping 5. Too much low speed rebound damping 6. Sticky forks Leaky seals 1. Old seals 2. Nicks in tubes 3. Worn bushings 4. Bent tubes 5. Improper installation 6. Fork tube too smooth (Extremely rare Solva suspension) Shocks Kicks This is commonly misdiagnosed. This symptom is usually diagnosed as not enough rebound damping however, it is usually caused by one of two things, It's too stiff, or way too soft. 1. Too much high speed compression damping 2. Spring rates too stiff 3. Way too much low speed compression damping 4. Too much rebound damping 5. Linkage bearings bad 6. Too high of tire pressure 7. Way too much pre0load 8. Sticky shock Bottoms 1. Not enough low speed compression damping 2. Not enough high speed compression damping 3. Spring rate too soft 4. Too much static sag 5. Suspension fluid worn, or poor quality 6. Not enough nitrogen pressure 7. Blow bladder 8. Distorted valving shims Swaps 1. Too much high speed compression damping, deflecting, not bottoming 2. Not enough low speed rebound damping-loose 3. Not enough high speed rebound damping 4. Spring rate too stiff 5. Spring rate too soft 6. Sticky shock Feels loose/shock pump 1. Not enough low speed rebound damping 2. Not enough high speed rebound damping 3. Not enough low speed compression damping 4. Spring rate too soft 5. Too little pre-load Poor Traction 1. Too much low speed rebound damping 2. Too much low speed compression damping 3. Not enough low speed rebound damping 4. Too much tire pressure 5. Tire worn 6. Shock heim bearing worn 7. Linkage bearings worn 8. Spring rate too stiff 9. Too much pre-load 10. Sticky shock Not tracking 1. Too much low speed rebound damping 2. Too much high speed compression damping 3. Too much low speed compression damping 4. Sticky forks, or sticky shock Sticky Shock 1. Linkage not maintained 2. Swing arm bearings worn 3. Shock eyelet bearing not lubed 4. Bent shock shaft 5. Worn/ poor quality seals, fluid, bushings Suspension Set-Up Front Forks and Wheel Installation Installing the front wheel incorrectly can cause the forks to bind, this will create a harsh stiff feeling as the forks go through the stroke. Most lower triple clamp lower bolts should be torqued to 12 to 15 ft. lbs., with the uppers being torqued 17 to 18 ft. lbs. Consult your service manual for the correct torque setting. Installing the front wheel correctly will ensure you do not bind the front forks. 1. Install front wheel. 2. Slide axle through forks, and tighten the nut (O.E.M torque spec) leaving the axle pinch bolts loose. 3. Remove the bike from the stand, lock the front brake and compress the suspension 4 times to center the axle in the fork lugs. 4. Tighten the axle pinch bolts to manufactures torque specification. Shock Installation When installing the shock onto the bike, always torque the bolts to manufactures torque specification. We always install the shock, take the bike off of the stand a put it under a load, then torque them to specification. This will insure there is not any binding in the linkage, or on KTM's in the heim joints. Tire Pressure A high amount of tire pressure can cause harshness and deflection which will create a feeling of unbalance on tough rocky, root infested trails. Depending on the weight of the rider, we typically suggest for 2 strokes 10 to 12+PSI, and for four strokes 10 to 14+ PSI. Of course this is dependent on where and what type of terrain you are riding This post has been promoted to an article
  16. 1 comment

    I have to add a full review to add the bike to my garage? Yeah, I'll come back to this. Theme will be: never buy the first year of any model.
  17. 1 review

    Wilbers model 642 is a 3 way rear shock with: Rebound damping adjust Piggyback reservoir High and low speed compression adjust Hydraulic preload adjust Fully rebuildable and five year warranty.Please specify spring color: Blue Springs with Red Knobs Black Springs with Grey Knobs.
  18. 1 review

    Wilbers model 630 is a front shock with: Rebound damping adjust Manual preload adjust Fully rebuildable and five year warranty.Please specify spring color: Blue Springs with Red Knobs Black Springs with Grey Knobs.
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