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I was going to start the thread with a I've been doing a lot of LDR lately (Long Distance Riding, duh!) and I need more gas crap, but to be honest, I love how the extra fuel canister looks on my bike. The problem I had is that I didn't want to the rotopax to be on the sides or the back but on top of the side aluminum cases. Right under my Wolfman rollie bags. But there was no way to strap them properly so I had to improvise. Total cost of project: $15 Total man hours spent: 1 Total beers consumed: 3 Industrial Revolution Vanilla Porter (I love living in CO) Enjoy! Your standard ADV side case Your standard BMW straps Using the Wolfman rollie alone with the straps: perfect! Using the Wolfman rollie and the rotopax with the straps: disaster! The rotopax will just fly away with the slightest bump. The solution: Footman Loops for next to nothing (here) I also needed some STAINLESS STEEL hardware as well as some pieces of an old bicycle tube Marking the “G” spot Measurements because OCD Am I actually drilling a hole on my sidecar? I wonder if this will void the warranty… The tube will help the water to stay out (in theory) Screw -> hook -> washer -> tube in this order Thank the OCD for measuring… How did I make it crooked? Screw tight (boom, phrasing!) Cut the edges. Final product And here’s the magic! Yes, these are the original straps that came with my bike… This rotopax, won’t go anywhere! Not bad, right? http://i.imgur.com/9yhErV9.jpg Best think, I can still open my side cases with everything on them! Now I’m ready to go to my local Starbucks. Oh wait, I’ve got extra fuel! I can go to the one across town!! WOOHOO!!!! This post has been promoted to an article
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I was going to start the thread with a I've been doing a lot of LDR lately (Long Distance Riding, duh!) and I need more gas crap, but to be honest, I love how the extra fuel canister looks on my bike. The problem I had is that I didn't want to the rotopax to be on the sides or the back but on top of the side aluminum cases. Right under my Wolfman rollie bags. But there was no way to strap them properly so I had to improvise. Total cost of project: $15 Total man hours spent: 1 Total beers consumed: 3 Industrial Revolution Vanilla Porter (I love living in CO) Enjoy! Your standard ADV side case Your standard BMW straps Using the Wolfman rollie alone with the straps: perfect! Using the Wolfman rollie and the rotopax with the straps: disaster! The rotopax will just fly away with the slightest bump. The solution: Footman Loops for next to nothing (here) I also needed some STAINLESS STEEL hardware as well as some pieces of an old bicycle tube Marking the “G” spot Measurements because OCD Am I actually drilling a hole on my sidecar? I wonder if this will void the warranty… The tube will help the water to stay out (in theory) Screw -> hook -> washer -> tube in this order Thank the OCD for measuring… How did I make it crooked? Screw tight (boom, phrasing!) Cut the edges. Final product And here’s the magic! Yes, these are the original straps that came with my bike… This rotopax, won’t go anywhere! Not bad, right? Best thing, I can still open my side cases with everything on them! Now I’m ready to go to my local Starbucks. Oh wait, I’ve got extra fuel! I can go to the one across town!! WOOHOO!!!! -
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Love it! (more coming later) -
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I love my BMW GS Adv. 'Nuff said. Best fun on two wheels since I had a sport bike. If anything my first thought when I bought it, as I rode away from the dealer, was "So THIS is what I'm missing out on."... Life is just different. And now my ZX10r sits in the garage, a proper race queen, having served me reliably for 27,000 miles... My GSA is not only my daily commute but my escape as well. -
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I love this bike... great handling a pure pleasure to ride, I have had no issues to speak of concerning this bike and hopefully will continue on in this manner. Enjoy the challenge of riding it offered and Conrad in the twists fully loaded -
Anyone else see this oxidation of their paralever arm? I saw this on Rich's bike and they said at the dealer it's a known issue. I just thought it was a copper color on purpose.
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Hi, I am interested in getting back into BMW ownership. I found a nice looking, clean R1150GS with about 55k miles on it locally. It has handguards, heated grips and panniers (nothing fancy, black plastic) and looks to be in good shape. The price is right, but I haven't owned a Beemer in over 20 years and that was an early 80's model. What are some the primary concerns or things I should look at? I plan to ride it a lot, and would like some insight into the longevity of the beast. I will hit some minor trails, but I prefer the standard style riding position to the cruiser style. I do ride off road on dedicated machines, so this won't be my only ride.
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The greatest Bike I've owned to date, Opened a world of back road fun !! -
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XOXOXOXOX -
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Great bike. Suspension needs some work. I also plan to add larger tanks for travel. -
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This is a great bike. Fun to ride on and off road. -
Scotty Breauxman writes for Adventure Motorcycle Magazine as well as promotes an event called Baja Rally. I first met Scotty at AltRider's Taste of Dakar in 2013 and have since run into him again in Baja as well as the last Taste of Dakar in Mar of this past year. http://www.adventuremotorcycle.com/reviews/24-reviews/bikes/699-bikes-project-2014-bmwf800gs-urm#.VK71jSvF_To He had this BMW F800 GS put together and billed it as "The Ultimate Adventure Riding Machine" with some help from BMW Motorcycles of Escondido, AltRider, Konflict Suspension, Woody's Wheels, etc... When I saw him at the TOD event earlier this year he said he'd just picked the bike up the day before and was excited to ride it. He said with the suspension, damper and Flexx bars that he called his "butter bike." There's many interesting comments on that page like how it's still way too heavy, too expensive, etc... At some point I'd like to do something similar, like an XLADV project bike. We're obviously don't (yet) have the reach of an ADVMoto to attract sponsors like that but I'm sure it won't be too long
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Currently I have two ponies I keep in my stable " garage" 2008: F650GS Dakar & 2013 F800 GS. I traveled most of the South East Coast all last year totaling a good 28,000mls mostly solo on the F650.I wanted a larger engine and have recently (Mid December) purchased the F800gs For a RTW/West coast exploration. I'm still getting comfortable with the 800's weight (especially packed with camping gear). I have had the honor of training and riding with some of XLADV riders. I believe we are headed to Lake Berryessa this weekend. I feel this is a great start to another awesome big bike community! -
This should apply to the GS as well and to all the oilhead models. No pics (yet) but I am happy to report no bloody knuckles. I got one minor scratch on my right middle finger. For anyone looking to change their front shock (rear is pretty easy), here's how to do it... First you want to remove your lower engine guards. This can be a challenge for some because the top fasteners tend to be hard to get to and loosen without stripping. Then you wan to remove the alternator belt cover. Why? Because it gets in the way of pulling out the shock and putting the new one in later. Next you want to remove a screw holding the front brake line on the right side of the bike. If you don't do this then you won't have slack to droop the front suspension low enough to get the shock out. It's tight in there and I found an L-shaped torx from my tool kit was the best solution. You have to somehow jack the bike up from the skid plate but with the rear still on the ground. I was able to lift it (with a friend) on top of my pannier, but a floor jack is probably ideal and safer. I also secured the bike with a strap from the middle of the handlebars to a hook firmly screwed into a beam in the roof of my garage. Then remove the top tank panel, as well as the two side panels and gas cap (four black screws). I put a rag in the tank opening so those screws holding the gas cap on don't accidentally fall in. Leave the front screws on the side plastic pieces secure; just take off the other two. These are just metal panels; it's really not that hard. Remember the longer screws go in that middle hole of the side plastic pieces. The rest should be roughly the same length. At this point you should be able to put a socket on the top bolt of the shock and take that top nut off. If you have a nifty ratcheting box-end wrench then you may be able to get away with not removing the top tank panel. It might be 15mm or 17 mm or in my case 11/16ths". Not a lot of room to work with. Keep the top bushing/spacer and remember to put it back on top of the new shock later. Remove the lower shock bolt from the right side. At this point, the shock should fall out of the top bracket and come loose from the lower mount. If it doesn't come loose from the lower mount, you can knock it back with a rubber mallet or something until it comes free. Also be sure to keep the rubber bushings and/or spacer that goes on top of the shock but below the top bracket. Then simply put the new shock in but make sure you put the top rubber washer below the bracket back on the new shock. Put the top end in first, then you can slide it forward and down into the lower shock mount. Tighten down the lower shock bolt to 30 ft/lbs/40 Nm and some blue loctite. At this point you can lower your bike back to the floor and on its center stand. Make sure the top of the shock is properly seated through the hole in the bracket. Place that other rubber washer you removed from your other shock on top and then secure with the top nut. I put a bit of blue loctite on it. Tighten down to 25 ft/lbs/34 Nm. Ah, but the shock turns when you try to tighten it! At first I tried a strap wrench but it wasn't really gripping. I finally found the crescent wrench from my tool bag (or 19mm open end wrench) would fit on the very top nut below the top bracket and prevent the shock from turning when you're tightening it. Yes, you will need the assistance of a buddy (two man job). Then you can put the alternator cover back on (not a bad time to consider changing your belt if it's been on there for more than 24K miles), as well as re-secure the front brake line on the right side. Then put your lower engine bars back on. That also can be a challenge and take two sets of hands and maybe some straps to pull the upper bars into alignment so you can attach them to the lower bars.
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I have had my 2013 BMW F800GS since September of 2012, and have since put 25k miles on it (and counting). It has proved to be a true all-rounder that excels at every task you put it to. Whether it is commuting, canyon carving, eating up freeway miles, packed to the brim for camping, single track, or fire roads, it seems to always be in its element. The only real complaint I have is the stock suspension, and it could use a little more POWER. For most people it is probably adequate. The specs can be deceiving, because it is an extremely versatile little Rotax with power and torque in every nook and cranny of the rev range. However, when you load it up with gear and try to do freeway speeds up steep inclines you can definitely feel the limitation. Other than that, my bike has been absolutely trouble free! http://youtu.be/0mtq5-dkAXg -
It all started in June of ’14. I found out I had a few days of vacation to use or lose at work, and at the last minute (3 days before departure) I decided to take a few days off and do a ride from Salt Lake City up through Yellowstone National park to Montana, and then back down through Idaho and back to Salt Lake. I called one of my riding buddies, he jumped on his Harley, and off we went. A motley pair - Me on my Tenere, and him on his Harley. There was no plan. It was ride, find a place to camp, ride, repeat. On day 1 we rode from Salt Lake up past Jackson Hole Wyoming with plans to camp in an ‘un-reserveable’ campground right outside the South entrance of Yellowstone. Well, as things sometimes go we found the un-reserveable campground not only full but half reserved. We rode around the loop of the campground once, and then started to ride the loop again just in case we’d missed something. As we rounded a corner on the second circuit of the campground this crazy German guy in a Touratech riding suit came bounding out of the bushes holding up his hand for us to stop. We did, and he began to inform us that the campground was full, but we we’re welcome to share his campspot with him and his wife! What luck! We quickly agreed, and thus a long-standing friendship was born with Claudia and Mirko of http://www.2ar.eu. 2 Adventure riders on the ride of their lives through the Americas on a charity Mission. We ended up spending the next few days with them as we explored Yellowstone, but I won’t get into that in this account. It was decided in those days that we would meet again in the Fall as they made their way back South from Canada to central America - we’d meet back up in Salt Lake City and do a tour of Southern Utah! Throughout the rest of the Summer I planned the Southern Utah Tour, figured out the routes we would take, and in early October Claudia and Mirko showed up with John Colyer of https://www.facebook.com/anomalyadv in tow. We spent a week in Salt Lake getting everybody ready, and then off we went - South for a planned 9 day tour of 6 National Parks - Zion, Bryce, Escalante, Capital Reef, Arches, And Canyonlands (Moab). It turned into 10 days however, as it got really windy on the day we we’re supposed to ride back to Salt Lake from Moab, and we all felt that was a good enough excuse to extend the trip another day! Hahaha. I won’t bore you with a long-winded account of the trip. That’s what video is for! Here’s a rather long, 15 minute account of the trip. Obviously you can’t fit 10 days of fun and adventure into a 15 minute video, but this was the best I could do! Enjoy! Oh, and if anyone wants to enjoy this route themselves HIT ME UP!!!! I’d be more than happy to do it again with a group, and I won’t even charge a tour-guide fee! Or, if you're interested, I can provide some links/coordinates of camping and trails along the route.- 12 replies
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It's name is "El Burro." Less than two years old and It has gotten me everywhere! The '13 the last year of the Oil/Air cooled 1200 boxer Adv Models. -
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I have done almost everything with that bike. Long distance Trip? Done. Short weekend trip? Done. OffRoad? Done. Extreme Offroad? Done. RaceTrack? Done. City run? Done. And it shines on all and every aspect of motorcycling. Low fuel consumption (given it's weight and power), awesome torque, handling on pavement is just awesome, offroad handling is not that great, but once you get used to the telelever shit... it will bring you anywhere no matter what. So far, If I had to buy another motorcycle today.... i would buy exactly the same bike. :) -
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Bought used in 2010 and haven't regretted it for a minute. Took it on White Rim Trail (not sure what I was thinking) as my first off road experience since being a kid. This is my go-to, long mileage bike. Aftermarket Corbin allows me to easily do 700-900 mile days. -
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If they could find a way to shave 50 pounds, it would be PERFECT! -
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Superb long distance traveling GS. This 2014 R1200GS Adventure is thus far the most competent do it all motorcycle that I've owned. I have the opportunity to ride all models of BMW motorcycles on regular basis, and if I had to own one from the entire line up it would be this bike. 300+ mile fuel range, great rider protection, comfortable riding position and features such as cruse control, and adjustable windscreen while on the way are just a few of the redeeming qualities. It's a pleasure to ride no matter how far both paved and dirt. However, your perspective of this motorcycle will grow as your ride takes you further and further away home. -
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As the first large Dual-Sport I've ever owned I'd have a hard time rating this bike. It serves me well and has always brought me home safely. -
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Produced from 2000 to 2007, the BMW F650GS is a dual-purpose motorcycle. It sold over 105,000 units during its production life. It was available in a lowered model with lower seat height from a shorter rear shock, a standard model, and a taller more off-road oriented "Dakar" model. The Dakar model had a thinner, 21 inch front wheel (as opposed to the standard 19 inch) and longer suspension travel for improved off-road handling. It also had a thicker, higher seat. It was named after the Paris Dakar Rally, which BMW rider Richard Sainct won on the F650RR in 1999 and 2000. Its specifications put it in the 650 cc dual-sport class, competing against bikes such as the Kawasaki KLR650, Suzuki DR650, Honda XR650L, KTM LC4 640, Yamaha XT660 and Honda Transalp. Design and technology The F650GS had several advanced technology features for its time, with computer-controlled fuel injection, catalytic converter, a Nikasil-lined cylinder, optional ABS and an airbox designed to exploit the airflow pattern of the bike when in motion. Combined with the bike's high compression ratio and twin spark plugs (from 2004 onwards), excellent fuel economy and low emissions existed alongside high power output. The original F650 single-engine was manufactured for BMW by Austrian company Rotax while the bike was assembled by Aprilia. When the F650GS was launched, the full process was brought back in-house. Amongst the changes from the earlier F650 Funduro, the engine was upgraded to a 43 mm throttle body. The fuel is stored in an under seat fuel tank,and the false tank (where a conventional fuel tank would be) housed the remote oil reservoir (for the dry sump), airbox and battery. This contributed to a lower centre of gravity for improved handling.[1] The bodywork was redesigned by head BMW designer David Robb. Due to the high numbers sold, the F650GS developed a large aftermarket accessories range and a sizeable owner community. BMW also developed a large range of factory original hard luggage for the bike. Engine and transmission Displacement: 652.00 ccm (39.79 cubic inches) Engine type: Single cylinder, four-stroke Power: 50.00 HP (36.5 kW)) @ 6500 RPM Torque: 60.00 Nm (6.1 kgf-m or 44.3 ft.lbs) @ 5000 RPM Top speed: 163.0 km/h (101.3 mph) Bore x stroke: 100.0 x 83.0 mm (3.9 x 3.3 inches) Valves per cylinder: 4 Fuel system: Injection Gearbox: 5-speed Transmission type, final drive: Chain Chassis, suspension, brakes and wheels Front suspension travel: 210 mm (8.3 inches) Rear suspension travel: 210 mm (8.3 inches) Front tyre dimensions: 90/90-S21 Rear tyre dimensions: 130/80-S17 Front brakes: Single disc Front brakes diameter: 300 mm (11.8 inches) Rear brakes: Single disc Rear brakes diameter: 240 mm (9.4 inches) Physical measures and capacities Weight incl. oil, gas, etc: 199.0 kg (438.7 pounds) Seat height: 910 mm (35.8 inches) If adjustable, lowest setting. Wheelbase: 1,489 mm (58.6 inches) Fuel capacity: 17.30 litres (4.57 gallons)
